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Recommended Wiring ?


HighlanderAudio

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Hey guys

Had a question about how i should wire my subwoofer.

Kicker L7 Solo Baric 4ohm DVC

Amp: Sony XM2002GTR ( POS i know, but its what i have on hand)

  • 2-channel car amplifier
  • 200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
  • 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
  • low-pass crossover (50-300 Hz, 12 dB/octave

What would be the best wiring for the L7 in MY case? Single Subwoofer DVC
1) 250rms @ 2ohm using one channel
2) 200rms @ 4ohm using one channel AND using only ONE voice coil ( other one disconnected) - I know this will half the subwoofers power ratings
3) 250rms @ 8ohm bridged
4) 500rms @ 4ohm bridged AND using only ONE voice coil ( other disconnected ) - I know this will half the subwoofers power ratings and adjust gain accordingly as 500w on one coil is too much
If you could explain why you picked your option above, thatd be nice. 

Ill be getting the proper amp for this subwoofer in the next two months. Until then, what would give me the most power/sound?

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2 hours ago, ckeeler11 said:

I would wire each channel to a VC so I would have 200w to each coil. Most power and using both coils.

Hmm, hadnt thought of that. Is this safe to do? The coils wont fight each other?

Forgot to also mention im using stock HU with adjustable LOC installed behind the dash, so im not sure i can get left and right exactly the same

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14 minutes ago, HighlanderAudio said:

Hmm, hadnt thought of that. Is this safe to do? The coils wont fight each other?

Forgot to also mention im using stock HU with adjustable LOC installed behind the dash, so im not sure i can get left and right exactly the same

Wire each coil to a channel like said, (mind to keep polarity correct), and you will have 400w going to the sub which will work fine for the time being. If it is a 2 channel LOC, there should be no adjustment that is independent to L or R signal alone. If there is any doubt, put a multimeter to each channel and play a sine wave and make sure each channel is very close in AC voltage.

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22 minutes ago, ChevyBoy95 said:

Wire each coil to a channel like said, (mind to keep polarity correct), and you will have 400w going to the sub which will work fine for the time being. If it is a 2 channel LOC, there should be no adjustment that is independent to L or R signal alone. If there is any doubt, put a multimeter to each channel and play a sine wave and make sure each channel is very close in AC voltage.

Yea, its a two channel LOC. Each channel has an adjustable knob ( 2v-12v ). I currently have it set to about 50% on each channel. I dont have a multimeter at the moment.

Would it be a better idea to get an RCA splitter and run it that way? To be more clear, ive uploaded a picture.

Would this be the best way to insure BOTH channels are getting the same power? Id hate to mess up this sub wiring 2 coils to 2 different channels if i cant ensure they are both getting the same power. I believe both channels would be the same with a splitter though. Am i wrong?

 

LOC.png

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Just to simplify things, i went ahead and got a rca splitter and wired it like above.

Sub is hitting adequately for now....until the new amp lol

Now im thinking the box i have for it is way off. Its stamped/branded as 3.0 cubic, baffled, countersunk,  and ported. According to online calculators and some research, i doubt its anything over 1.5 cubic :(

The dimensions of the box are 15.25"H  X  19.5"W  X  16.25"L . Even with it sealed its NOWHERE near 3.0 cubic. Sealed, with those dimensions, im gettin 2.11 cubic. Thats not including subwoofer displacement or port displacement ( inside the box ). I guess i can see why this box was free lol. Such a decent looking box though. Itll have to do for now.

I did notice with this box that i had to turn the LPF on. With it off, the bass sounds horrible. Im assuming this is due to the enclosure volume. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

THanks so far guys

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