mpulford311 Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 I have a mechman 250 amp alternator a XS 3400 under the hood a XP300 battery in back running a skar 3500 watt monoblock and a skar 4 channel amp. My question is do I have too add another run of 0 gauge to the back battery from the alternator. I just have the 1 run from the front battery to back. I have also the big 3 done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Not to my knowledge. I assume your current setup = alternator > under the hood batt > isolator > back battery > equipment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpulford311 Posted November 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Yes. When you say isolator you mean fuse? Or is an Isolator something else I need? I didn't know if I already have charge wire to front battery is indeed another to back battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Here is a pretty a pretty decent explanation image I found. I do recommend at least 1 fuse, right before your under the hood battery, and as you can see many use a second fuse right before your trunk battery. But a fuse is different from an isolator (Which most would say you should use) An isolator helps manage the current between both of your batteries. It should be installed somewhere between you two batteries (After your fuse, before your second fuse or second batter) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 If you are using a mechman 250, you should get more than a 250A isolator. Probably around 300A. The larger the isolator, the better it will dissipate heat, and the longer it will last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Oh, one more note. You will notice in the example above they are running a ground between the two batteries. I have see this done, and I have seen the back battery with its own grounding point. I don't know which is technically more correct, but I have seen both work. Hope all of this helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpulford311 Posted November 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 OK makes sense now thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 zero need for an isolator. leave that to the people on boats. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 9 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said: zero need for an isolator. Was Just about to post the same thing. An isolator is not needed. For what your system consist of one run of 1/0 is fine. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Maybe I jumped the gun on this one. The isolator is not going to serve a purpose unless you play your music with the car off. But to clarify... IF you run your system with the car off, you want an isolator so that your under-the-hood battery is not affected while you drain your trunk battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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