Younggun85 Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 I'm going to start with, I've been running the same pair of RF Punch HX2 dual 4 ohm subs since December of 2000... and I haven't had them in a vehicle since probably 2006. I put them in my work car with an 800 watt Pioneer and got bit by the bass head bug, I've upgraded (and by upgraded, I mean I've spent the cash and they are collecting dust in thier packaging) to a CAB 1600.1 and a Sundown X12 dual 2 ohm, I'm like a fish out of water everything I've dealt with in the past hasn't had this much of a "holy sh*t" factor. I like my SQ, but there are no specs for this sub in a sealed box that I have seen and I hate to waste material and time to build a box that's going to get the seals blown out. So I turn to a much more knowledgeable source than me in, has anyone even tried to put an X12 in a sealed box? And if that isn't possible, could I effectively port into the cabin of the car with a rear facing sub? Any input is welcome, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Alright, 3 hours and no answer so I'll give it a go... I'm not the forum pro you are looking for, but here is a bit of general knowledge for you: 1) I wouldn't put an SA12 in a sealed box unless I was just that limited on space. And neither would SA, which is why they don't suggest it. 2) You can port into cabin with sub facing rear, or vice versa, just depends. What are you driving? 3) I am in the process of upgrading myself - love the 'oh sh**' factor. Take a look at the x12 'suggested' menu at http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/x-rev-2-series ^^^SA has pretty much built your box for you. Up to you how you want to incorporate it into your vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Younggun85 Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Currently building this into a 95 Pontiac Bonneville, it's my daily driver/work car and is always packed full of tools. that was mostly why I opted to run one serious driver over my two dated drivers in a prefab bandpass... it's taking up most of my trunk space by the time you factor in the amp rack I barely have room for my jumper cables and tow chain, let alone impact, drill, circular saw, tool bags, ect, ect... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 You will be giving up a LOT of performance below 50 Hz in a sealed box vs a ported one, but you do what you have to do to make it fit. My preference would be for a small ported box, even if you could only get 1.5 cu ft net. If you are going to build inside the trunk, the hard part is getting all the joints tight while the glue dries. A Kreg jig is VERY useful for helping you do that. You can get the basic one off Amazon for as little as $20. Harbor Freight has one too for a bit more. Usually the best thing to do it assemble the box outside the trunk using only screws, making sure everything fits together correctly. Then you take the screws out and assemble it inside the vehicle with glue. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Younggun85 Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Really digging this Forum, you guys are on it! This is a temp setup, looking to move into something newer that seals better than my $200 Bonny, I bought because I was in a pinch and the stereo started as a budget build sporting Cerwin Vega XED525c components in the doors and V469 coaxials in the rear deck powered by an old Alpine V-power 250x4 I scored on a classifieds sight for dirt cheap. Started with a TMA 500.1 amp that was clapped out and moved to a Pioneer 8601d. Ran 1/0 wire all through the car, did the big 3. Thinking if I move forward in the Bonneville I need to add a second battery as my current setup that might make a little over 1000 watts combined makes no quams about pulling my amp meter under 10... This is the current setup, prior to running the 1/0 gauge wire and ditching the power cap that did absolutely nothing but make impossible to tune my door and rear deck speakers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdc Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 If your voltage meter is dropping below 10 at ANY point, you probably need to be thinking about a new alternator. You can probably find an OEM alt up to 160amp or you could even look at a mechman alt. A second battery will help, but if you are dropping that low it won't solve your problem. Yeah those caps are not worth much if you don't have the electrical to back it up. Good luck on your build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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