Jump to content
DC/FosgateBumpin

In need of some help choosing the right mids and highs.

Recommended Posts

I’m new to the forum, but have been a huge fan of Steve’s for a long time now. So naturally, I decided to come to his forum to hopefully get some advice on completing my system for my 2013 Impala LTZ. I already have a Pioneer AVH-x5800bhs installed, as well as some infinity kappa 6.5” components up front, and 6x9’s in the rear deck. They’re being pushed by my Fosgate t400.4. I’m having my sub enclosure built as I’m typing this. I’m running 2 DC Audio Level 4 15’s on a T2500.1bdcp. I just purchased the 8 channel Fosgate 360.3. Wanting to upgrade my components up front to something that can handle the power that t400.4 puts out, running an active front stage on that amp. Ordered a t400-2 to run some rear fill, so I’m gonna need some good 6x9’s to run on the t400-2. I don’t want to do any door mods to fit anything  I’d prefer something that will work in he factory locations with as little customization as possible. 

Can anyone suggest some mids and highs for me? 

Won’t let me upload pics of my subs and amps. File sizes must be too large since that error message keeps popping up. 

Update- link to pics below  

https://postimg.org/gallery/1u7obg2a6/

Edited by DC/FosgateBumpin
Adding link to pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about the RF Punch Pro 6.5's? I am currently running a set of these in my doors with a Punch 400-4 and they scream. Not sure about 6x9's that can handle that kind of power, sorry. 

I hear good things about the Punch Pro 1.5 in tweeters but I have never physically heard them. 

Edited by PC Principal

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm running silver flute 8's and vifa tweets passive. Bridged on my T400-4. It doesn't have enough to push them lol. If I crank it too long it will get hot and shut off for a sec. They easily handle the power... need more power for them. I want to bridge the amp to the mids, and get a separate 2ch to run the tweets off 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, YukonXL04 said:

I'm running silver flute 8's and vifa tweets passive. Bridged on my T400-4. It doesn't have enough to push them lol. If I crank it too long it will get hot and shut off for a sec. They easily handle the power... need more power for them. I want to bridge the amp to the mids, and get a separate 2ch to run the tweets off 

Yesssss go active man

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

look into the JBL 660GTI!! I picked up 2 component sets (active) after doing a TON of research & couldnt be happier! Go with the 660's, theyre cheaper compared to the newer 670's and are identical except for 1 large crossover on the 660 vs 2 smaller crossovers on the 670. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The wife as a 2012 Malibu that i put a system into. 

RF T3 6.5 driver in front doors. RF P1 tweeter in pillar. (making a pillar pods to house a 4" Focal comp set) 

RF T1692's in rear deck.

T1 sub in trunk.

RF P-200.2 to run tweeters soon to be Focal mid-range and highs.

P-500.4 to run T3 6.5" in front doors and T1 6x9's in rear deck.

1999 RF Power 1000a1 in 1 ohm.

System sounds killer.

The T400-2 is a powerful amp, i run it in my Lancer to run 2 RF T2 in each door at 2 ohm and getting close to 250 watts per channel to power the mids. Better power than the T400-4 i have to run tweeters and rear doors.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

also look at the anarchy woofers from DIYSOUNDGROUP really nice xbl^2  motors, about double what the silver flutes are but with a LOT less distortion. Silver flutes are super nice, I owned a pair of the 8"s. 

Although it really helps to know what type of music you like too, but some other brands to look at is Dayton Audio, SB Acoustics, 18sound, B&C, RCF, SEAS (if you're feelin a little crazy about your SQ). 

My recommendation always if get a nice thick adapter (WCCARAUDIO SON! support steve and the forum) for a component set with 6.5"s and run active. Active is really the way to go a lot of fun to mess with. 

It really helps to have a measurement mic though. Partsexpress has a couple, get a behringer mic that works with REW or RoomEQ Wizard and you'll have more than you can handle with the 360 and REW. Have fun. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/14/2017 at 4:49 PM, PC Principal said:

How about the RF Punch Pro 6.5's? I am currently running a set of these in my doors with a Punch 400-4 and they scream. Not sure about 6x9's that can handle that kind of power, sorry. 

I hear good things about the Punch Pro 1.5 in tweeters but I have never physically heard them. 

Thanks for the response. I’ve been looking into the higher end Fosgate component sets. I’m thinking about running two T5 component sets up front. 4 mids on the t400.4, and 4 tweeters on the T400-2. I’m gonna go ahead and have my front doors built to house 2 6.5’s each, and the A Pillars to house 2 tweeters each.  I’m just gonna have to save up for the Fosgate T5 component sets. I’ll be ok with these cheap Infinity Kappas until I get them. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By BigDWiz
      Here we have John Enzweilier"s 1993 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab pickup with the 90's Rockford Fosgate equipment. John's truck has the following gear:
      Pioneer DEX-P8000R Head Unit
      (5) Rockford Fosgate Punch 200x2 Amplifiers
      (1) Rockford Fosgate Punch 400x4 Amplifier
      (8) Rockford Fosgate Punch DVC Special Edition 12" subs
      ESB Audio 8000 6.5" component speakers
      3.5" JL Audio Coaxials
      6.5" JL Audio Coaxials
      Stinger OFC Wiring / Distribution
      Note: this is not an SPL setup, just a fun old school install. Don't get too caught up on the numbers...
      See OSS Meets Playlist: https://is.gd/ossmeets
      Watch video on YouTube in 4K UHD or embedded below:
       
    • By Joshdashef
      Most updated pics can be found at https://www.tumblr.com/blog/joshdashef | I use Tumblr as my picture hosting platform | 
      Previously I had a RF Prime 750.1 going to two RF 12 4DVC on stock electrical and big three.
       
      New Build Equipment
      Active Setup from HU: Pioneer 80 PRS
       
      Front Stage
      T2652-S powered off a P600X4 (4 ohm | speaker per channel)
      Lows
      2x P3 4DVC powered off a DC Audio 2k (1 ohm | Dual 1/0 inputs)
      Batteries
      Starter - Walmart Group 51R | Reserve - XS D3400 (Flat 6 bolt) 
      Alternator
      Mechman 240 Blue 
      Wiring
      RCAs - Rockford Fosgate 20ft | Sky High 1/0 Blue (2 runs) | Sky High 10 gauge (subs) | Front Stage Speaker Wire - undecided matching Sky High 14 gauge
      Fuse Holders / Gauges
      Stinger Volt meter | Sky High dual anl fuse holder (two for main power and one for sub amp input) | SMD Fuse Blocks 3x dual 1x single
       
       
      Planned Upgrade List
      3 pairs of RCAs  Done
      New Wider False Floor Not needed
      New Sub Enclosure 2x12 or 1x15
      Amp Rack for Dc 2k and four channel 
      Distribution Block/Fuses (trunk)
      Dual Fuse Mount under hood  Done
      Running two runs of 1/0 Sky High OFC front to back
      Battery Mount for XS D3400
      Mechman HO Alternator
      New Headliner
      New Rear Parcel Tray or Reinforce old?
      Fix Gas Lid Wire  Done
      Stinger Volt Meter for front and rear batteries amplifier input
       
       
      Sound Deaden areas;
      Doors
      Roof
      Wheel Wells 
      Hood
      Trunk lid (lower 1/2 done)
      Trunk spare tire (1/4 done)
      Parcel Tray
       
      Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS

      Amp:

      Subs / Old Q-power Box:

      Under Hood:





      Day 1: Strippin 'er down
      Trunk

      Cabin | Rear/Front Seats Removed and some panels including center console (didn't get a pic of rear seats will do tomorrow)




    • By Wicks
      Hey everybody,
      Time for me to join the party!
      The Harmon Kardon factory system in my M3 just wasn't doin' it for me so I decided to rip err all out and do some WERK!
      So here's what I started with:


      I didn't like any of the factory components, so I'm building it head to toe, here's a list of the main components:
      Mechman 320A (to replaced the factory 120A)
      One run each (power/ground) of 0 gauge OFC, front to back (stock battery is in the trunk)
      Two XS Power XP3000's (jumped in on the group buy recently)
      Alpine INA-W900 (As you will see later, this was quite a battle to install)
      Alpine Imprint H100
      Alpine Sirius Tuner
      Coax signal cables
      12Ga Knu Kord speaker wire for Mids/Highs
      8Ga Stinger OFC for subs/highs amp
      Hertz HSK130 5 1/4" Components
      Rockford Fosgate Punch200DSM for the highs (OLD SCHOOL from 1993!)
      DC Audio 2.0K
      DC Audio XL12m2
    • By Joshdashef
      With my previous amp, R750-1D, the wiring was wired in parallel internally and had two sets of speaker outputs (+ and -). Currently I have two 4 ohm dual voice coil subs each wired down to 2 ohms, and put into each of the pairs. 
       
      Here is the wiring diagram for my current amplifier: Link for full PDF

      My question is with the upgraded amplifier I will be using, a DC 2k, do I need to follow this same routine and wire two sets of 2 ohm and it is internally paralleled.
       
  • Who's Online   17 Members, 0 Anonymous, 911 Guests (See full list)

×