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Certified vs uncertified vs dynamic


akuma4u

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Sorry if im posting in wrong section but..

..can someone give me a definition of certified uncertified and dynamic pls?

Also...which one should be looked at as the main mode ive heard dynamic is what matters most then i heard from others uncertified or certified is what matters and dynamic doest mean squat. Usually the people who say that are on a different forum..

Also...if setting gains by dmm and voltage method..should i use the uncertified certified or dynamic mode as the rms?

Thanks

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I read this as well but which mode is the most important or should be followed more than the other 2? The amp i got now does 1800 cert 2200 uncert and 2700 dynamic. So im trying to set gains uing dmm but im confused as to which rms number to use to figure out my voltage..

Also which amp would be the better of the two? An amp that does 2300 uncert and 2100 dynamic or an amp that does 2200 uncert and 2700 dynamic?

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Certified is more towards people wanting to run a SQ system

Uncertified is more for your SPL systems where you have long drawn out notes like test tones

Dynamic is more for your quick changing bass songs. to me Dynamic is what you would want if you listen to music other than Rap/HipHop/R&B 

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just because the amp that was used in the dyno put out those numbers doesn't mean yours will. every component in your amp is different than the one in the dyno'ed amp because of tolerances in electronic components. no two pieces of equipment are exactly the same. 

find a shop near you or a person that owns a DD-1 or an O-Scope, or spend the money on one yourself, and stop guessing your gain setting with a multimeter.

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1 hour ago, reedal said:

just because the amp that was used in the dyno put out those numbers doesn't mean yours will. every component in your amp is different than the one in the dyno'ed amp because of tolerances in electronic components. no two pieces of equipment are exactly the same. 

find a shop near you or a person that owns a DD-1 or an O-Scope, or spend the money on one yourself, and stop guessing your gain setting with a multimeter.

of course the numbers wont be the exact same but it should be ballpark figures which is good enough for me. I am not going to nitpick over 10-50rms here or there. Thanks for the advice on the devices.. unfortunately no shop near me carries the dd1 and the shop that does carry an oscope is close to 2 hours away.. and im not in the market to purchase either at the moment. so its DMM gain setting for me for now.  The number 1 most common response i get when i call shops all around my city asking for professional gain setting is that they all do it by ear and when i ask why they dont use tools such as oscope or dd1 etc.. they tell me when you have been doing car audio for 10-20 years then you master setting gain by ear and tools are not necessary. Of course i dont schedule an appointment with these shops. One day i will invest in a dd1 or oscope.. but for now its DMM.

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1 hour ago, steveomgb said:

Certified is more towards people wanting to run a SQ system

Uncertified is more for your SPL systems where you have long drawn out notes like test tones

Dynamic is more for your quick changing bass songs. to me Dynamic is what you would want if you listen to music other than Rap/HipHop/R&B 

well.. i dont listen to rap or hip hop, more into EDM,. and those bass notes sometimes tend to be long and drawn out as well esp in dubstep but then again more genres like dnb and techno/trance etc have very fast punchy bass notes which is totally dynamic.. so i think what i will do..to play it safe is take the average of uncertified and dynamic and use that as my RMS for setting gain via DMM method.  If i were to use dynamic only and then play something with a very long continuous bassline then i may introduce too much hard clipping.

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47 minutes ago, akuma4u said:

 The number 1 most common response i get when i call shops all around my city asking for professional gain setting is that they all do it by ear and when i ask why they dont use tools such as oscope or dd1 etc.. they tell me when you have been doing car audio for 10-20 years then you master setting gain by ear and tools are not necessary. Of course i dont schedule an appointment with these shops.

Using the ear-o-scope is possible at low frequencies, i imagine it would be even more audible as frequency increases into area's the human ear is more sensitive too.

I use the DD-1 myself though.

 

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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If given no other choice but to use a DMM for setting gains (which i did before my DD-1) i would use ohms law on the rated number from manufacturer to figure out the voltage and confirm with careful ear-o-metering with various tones,

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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41 minutes ago, Markous said:

If given no other choice but to use a DMM for setting gains (which i did before my DD-1) i would use ohms law on the rated number from manufacturer to figure out the voltage and confirm with careful ear-o-metering with various tones,

i was able to hear the distortion in that vid as well.. BUT inside a car environment, not all cars, but mine for sure, there is so much vibration from panels and stuff it would be very hard to pick up this distortion by ear. Conversely, when i played the video in my room through my 2 12 inch subs i was able to hear the distortion right away.. there is no panel or loose stuff that vibrates in my room to get in the way of the detection.

now.. i must question why you chose to go from the rated number from the manufacturer when often those numbers are either inflated or, at times, under rated. Wouldnt it make more sense to go by what the dyno says as that is a much more truer representation of what the amp really does?

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