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Sundown Audio

is it safe to wire each voice coil individually to mono amp?


akuma4u

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Just for giggles, wire your sub up in series, see how the amp reacts.  its going to produce much less power, however will be much more efficient and less strain on the alternator and other electrical.  but at least it wont distort. Id rather have less power and crystal clear sound than insane loud and distorted.  But its a  free option to at least try.  just my $0.02

"Be sure you know what you're talking about, before you give advice"

Tim

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2 minutes ago, PC Principal said:

I'll probably get a lot of hate for this, but if you are very tight on space in your trunk, you could consider going with a sealed enclosure. Super easy to build yourself, and I personally prefer the way they sound over a ported box, but I am also a metal head. 

actually.. i did sealed all my life until recently.. my next build will either be 2 12s sealed or a single 12 sundown U series in a ported box. 

i was going to get 2 12 aa havocs, i read people do in the mid 140s with just 1 12 sealed.. but those have been out of stock for a while and no idea when they are coming back.

I find sealed worked better for the music i listened to and excelled in sound quality and got plenty loud. I read to the ear sealed will sound louder but on the meter ported will do bigger numbers..

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2 minutes ago, SE wisconsin said:

Just for giggles, wire your sub up in series, see how the amp reacts.  its going to produce much less power, however will be much more efficient and less strain on the alternator and other electrical.  but at least it wont distort. Id rather have less power and crystal clear sound than insane loud and distorted.  But its a  free option to at least try.  just my $0.02

this thought crossed my mind.. but id be seriously underpowering my sub if i do that ,. like sundown subs are already underrated .. so its rated for 1500,. at 4ohms id be giving it like 750 or 800 watts.. id be way better off just running my sa 12 off 1000.. im very happy with the sa12 in this current box i got..1.95 cubes 27 sq in of port tuned to 35

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4 hours ago, akuma4u said:

Ya true that on not wanting to spend money. So im going to do this..im goomg to get a proper box made. That was my plan regardless and then see if that fixes the issue or at least helps it. The part that throws me off is since its a zv3 motor and magnet but zv4 soft parts do i build the box as if its a zv3 or a zv4??? There is a huge difference in airspace between the two woofers. I didnt realize this at first and had a design built by triticum but that was considering it was a zv3..but others have told me i basically have a zv4 now without a megaroll surround. 

My trunk is too tight..no way to invert. Right now im thinking of doing an aero port box to get more net airspace or an external port. Or worst case scenerio take the labryinth style box triticum made for me amd decrease the port to 3 inches instead of 3.25 so i can get more net airspace. 

If i knew how confusing the ts parameters woild become i wouldve never used all diffetent parts. 

A user who apparently blocked me after an emotional episode called kyblack76 is coming up in searches on google who has said some very negative things about gp audios alternators...but didnt explain why. Now thats he has blocked me..ill never know why he is so against them. 

If you are swapping back and forth between a d4 sa12 and a d2 zv3 then that is definetly one way to see the clipping indicator more oftenly. A zv3 is one hell of a woofer to get moving especially tuned at 30hz, they are stiff as shit when fresh and take a good amount of power. 

Are you reading voltage directly off the bank? You seriously need to get that big 3 done.

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5 hours ago, slowfkncar said:

If you are swapping back and forth between a d4 sa12 and a d2 zv3 then that is definetly one way to see the clipping indicator more oftenly. A zv3 is one hell of a woofer to get moving especially tuned at 30hz, they are stiff as shit when fresh and take a good amount of power. 

Are you reading voltage directly off the bank? You seriously need to get that big 3 done.

i have a voltmeter set up under my head unit which is next to the bass knob with the clipping indicator.. so i can see both. Singer told me he can hook me up with a 220amp alt for my car,. im going to get it.

yes the damn zv3/zv4 is super stiff.. it does require a lot of power.. and i dont think my electrical can give it what it wants.. hence the clipping.. the 220amp alt should fix that issue tho.

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15 hours ago, akuma4u said:

i have a voltmeter set up under my head unit which is next to the bass knob with the clipping indicator.. so i can see both. Singer told me he can hook me up with a 220amp alt for my car,. im going to get it.

yes the damn zv3/zv4 is super stiff.. it does require a lot of power.. and i dont think my electrical can give it what it wants.. hence the clipping.. the 220amp alt should fix that issue tho.

Yeah sounds like a plan, the 220 will work fine. Tight & solid connections, alt & big 3 should fix you right up.  Let me know if you have any questions with zv3's, i use them both in stock form & zv4 softies.

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13 minutes ago, slowfkncar said:

Yeah sounds like a plan, the 220 will work fine. Tight & solid connections, alt & big 3 should fix you right up.  Let me know if you have any questions with zv3's, i use them both in stock form & zv4 softies.

awesome.. 2 things i need help with

1) singer and excessive amperage are offering me both 220amp alts but they are not 6 hairpin style,. they are slot wound. is this bad?

2) My zv3/4 consists of the following parts:

zv4 12d2 drop in with brown spider and spl cone

3 inch coil, 234mm brown x 12 v2 spider, d2 v4 coil, triple joint ring 3 inch large zv5, 12 inch frame

so.. my question is this..

how many cubes net and port area is recommended with this sub? i dont have much space.. i had enough space for the zv3 stock version but i dont know about now. so if u could tell me the min and max net airspace required and port area etc that will help me greatly.

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57 minutes ago, akuma4u said:

awesome.. 2 things i need help with

1) singer and excessive amperage are offering me both 220amp alts but they are not 6 hairpin style,. they are slot wound. is this bad?

2) My zv3/4 consists of the following parts:

zv4 12d2 drop in with brown spider and spl cone

3 inch coil, 234mm brown x 12 v2 spider, d2 v4 coil, triple joint ring 3 inch large zv5, 12 inch frame

so.. my question is this..

how many cubes net and port area is recommended with this sub? i dont have much space.. i had enough space for the zv3 stock version but i dont know about now. so if u could tell me the min and max net airspace required and port area etc that will help me greatly.

Well for the most part, that is a custom driver with no available paremeters and that alone can cause alot of trial & error, this is what i found works best for me.

With zv4 softies & the newer basket on zv3 motors off a 4500.1, i find 2.2 net,35-40 sq.in of port tuned to 32hz works well for me.

Same woofer off a 2500.1, i prefer 2.5 net,35 sq.in of port tuned to 32.  

I use both enclosures for music, but alot of 28-45hz songs.

 

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