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Power problems in mercedes build


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I have an 07 CLS550 that has a stock alternator of 180amps.  I'm currently running two hi fonics amps.  The BE35 1700.1D for the subs and the BE35 800.4 for the mids n highs.  I also changed the main battery "because this car comes stock with 2 batteries" to an XS power D4900.  I recently installed a supposedly 260amp high output alt that I purchased from some company down in socal.  Nobody else makes a H/O alt for this car.  Well I installed it and about a month later it took a crap on me.  Swapped back to the oem and its fine.  OEM is charging at 14v while the new one was way undercharging, gonna send it back to be checked.  The problem I'm having is how should I go about fixing the electrical.  Ive been told because its a euro car, I should add a capacitor.  Now from what I know and read many times, those are not needed.  The XS D4900 is rated from 3000-4000 watt systems which is what I'm pushing now.  Is my electrical fine the way it is now being that I'm back with the OEM alt and upgraded battery or should I add a cap or one of those XS ultracaps to my system.  I'm having a hard time finding someone who really knows about upgrading euro audio systems.  Also, would it be wise to charge my battery once a week to take some load off the stock alternator so that it doesn't have to work so hard to keep my battery charged if I'm constantly playing the music loud.  Thanks, for the help in advance

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honestly, I'm not sure if I have voltage drop because the battery is in the trunk and the subs are too dam heavy to pull out.  I tested the voltage before connecting the subs and it went up to 14v.  I will add a voltage meter soon.  I'm just wondering if my stock alt is good enough for the power I'm pushing or would it be wise to get a cap or one of those XS ultracaps (looks like a second battery)

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1 hour ago, slappz408 said:

honestly, I'm not sure if I have voltage drop because the battery is in the trunk and the subs are too dam heavy to pull out.  I tested the voltage before connecting the subs and it went up to 14v.  I will add a voltage meter soon.  I'm just wondering if my stock alt is good enough for the power I'm pushing or would it be wise to get a cap or one of those XS ultracaps (looks like a second battery)

You won't know until you get a voltmeter. If you are dropping under 12 V you might wanna upgrade the other battery too, but it's too soon to think of options if you don't know if you have a problem or not. And you are definitely not pushing 3000-4000 watts with those amps.

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If i'm correct the second battery is is for the safety systems like abs esp sbc as backup. and is quit finicky according to many poeple. 

my S211 voltage was 14+ with 500ah in the trunk, ran 2 x12's and a M3a full tilt with no problems. dont know if you have an extra battery to test if it holds the voltage if there is more backup AH ?

mercedes voltage

that amp has 20,000 watts with 18volts, when lightning strikes and has jesus' blessing

Alpine 9886R

Harman/Kardon ca280

Spl dynamics Sd-6.2

DD M3a

2 x Sundown X12's

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I read on a Mercedes forum that my year car doesn't have the second battery after all.. I will call Mercedes to confirm this.  Either way, if I do have a voltage drop when playing the music at full tilt, how do I fix this being that it seems that no one builds an alternator past 180amps.  I don't have an extra battery, just the one in the trunk but I think that XS D4900 that I installed should be able to handle what I have as far as wattage goes.

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So you only have the D4900 80 Ah battery? I would get another g31 for the trunk, or the biggest battery you can fit, and see if it holds voltage better. If that doesn't work, get an alternator from a good company like Mechman, Singer, DC Power etc. What brand is your alt that broke? Just curious. Pm it to me if you don't wanna say here.

 

Some voltage drop is acceptable. It won't make an audible difference for a daily system, you're not competing for spl.

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Have you checked with Mike Singer to see if he can make you an alternator?  it wont be cheap (prob $500-$800), but i know he knows his way around euros.  I would drop him a line.  I have an e39 bmw and he made one for me no problem.  270 amps of goodness.

once you figure out if your voltage is dropping that is.  get the voltmeter first, before anything else.  typical euro cars are super sensitive to voltage drop, meaning their electrical systems dont like it.

 

being that youre running the battery you are and the stock alt of 180 amps (which is pretty awesome), i'd suspect youve been pretty safe so far, but the voltmeter will be definitive.

 

if it comes time to add another battery, consider going lithium.  there are 70ah options out there for under $600.  one of the single best upgrades i made.

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