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Probably a stupid question about fusing


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Hey guys, its been a while since I've been on here. I purchased a new car (2014 Honda accord v6) back in 2014 and I am now getting ready to do an install ( b2 amps for bass and mids and highs and a hn12 nothing crazy). I wanted to get a smd distro block to use under hood (the 2 spot terminal) 1 side for alt + and 1 side from battery and both going into a 1/0 to the back. My stupid question is can I actually use it that way where the side of the block that is not linked as an "input" side and the side of the block that is linked as "output". Or is it better to fuse my alt + and run it directly to the battery and fuse the run to the back? Pretty much I wanted to make it as clean as possible not having fuse holders everywhere.

So far for terminals I have Knukonceptz terminals with the factory post adapters, which only has (1) 1/0 spot (1) 4 gauge spot and (1) 8 gauge spot. If I ran my wires directly to the terminals I would have to do my big 3 using 4 gauge or use reducers. 

Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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If you mean like this...

40254430331_cb4bed1ecd_b.jpg

Yes it will work, but I personally would also have a wire from the alt + to the battery +

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Yes pretty much what I was trying to say only difference would be a single run to the back. If I add that run from alt to battery, that extra fuse block needed in between is what I was trying to avoid adding. So I will be right back where I started. I can pretty much just scrap that idea about adding the smd block and just get 1 more fuse holder to fuse the alt to battery. Using either 4 gauge for big 3 or use 1/0 with a reducer at the battery terminal so it can fit in the 4 gauge spot.

Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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47 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

Much easier to just add a run from your alt to your battery and just a single run from the battery back. End results are the same.

Technically not really the same end result.

The 2 runs of positive wire from front to back would lower the resistance in the wire VS just having 1 run of power front to back.
The lower resistance in the wire will lower your voltage drop from front to back.

Example your front battery voltage with the vehicle running is 13.8 volts, but the voltage in the rear is only say 13.6 volts with the amp turned off or volume at 0.
Now lets add a 350 amp load to that single run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is about 17 feet long, and now your voltage in the back has dropped to 12.6 volts (8.5% drop in voltage).

Now lets add a 2nd run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is the same length at 17 feet and apply that same 350 amp load. Your rear voltage is now at 13.2 volts (4.2% drop in voltage).
Lets do a 3rd run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is 17 feet long with a 350 amp load. Your rear voltage is now 13.4 volts (2.8% drop in voltage).

4th positive run: 13.5 volts (2.1% drop in voltage), and so on.

So end results are anything but the same!
However the question you have to ask yourself is what are your goals, and is that extra wiring worth its cost to you for your needs?


A daily driver vehicle with a small system, maybe 3 or 4 runs is too much, but that 2nd run you feel is worth the cost.

A competition vehicle that is only allowed one 800 cubic inch battery under the hood, and the vehicle must be kept off during the competition you may feel that doing 20 positive runs and 20 negative runs front to back is worth it.


This can also be applied to RCA cables. 
Quality low resistance rca cable VS thin cheap cables.
The thinner cables will have more voltage drop, so your headunit may have 4volt preouts, but in the back at the amp you may only see 2.8volts (again a rough estimate).
 

 

 

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9 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:

Technically not really the same end result.

The 2 runs of positive wire from front to back would lower the resistance in the wire VS just having 1 run of power front to back.
The lower resistance in the wire will lower your voltage drop from front to back.

Example your front battery voltage with the vehicle running is 13.8 volts, but the voltage in the rear is only say 13.6 volts with the amp turned off or volume at 0.
Now lets add a 350 amp load to that single run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is about 17 feet long, and now your voltage in the back has dropped to 12.6 volts (8.5% drop in voltage).

Now lets add a 2nd run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is the same length at 17 feet and apply that same 350 amp load. Your rear voltage is now at 13.2 volts (4.2% drop in voltage).
Lets do a 3rd run of positive 1/0 gauge power wire that is 17 feet long with a 350 amp load. Your rear voltage is now 13.4 volts (2.8% drop in voltage).

4th positive run: 13.5 volts (2.1% drop in voltage), and so on.

So end results are anything but the same!
However the question you have to ask yourself is what are your goals, and is that extra wiring worth its cost to you for your needs?


A daily driver vehicle with a small system, maybe 3 or 4 runs is too much, but that 2nd run you feel is worth the cost.

A competition vehicle that is only allowed one 800 cubic inch battery under the hood, and the vehicle must be kept off during the competition you may feel that doing 20 positive runs and 20 negative runs front to back is worth it.


This can also be applied to RCA cables. 
Quality low resistance rca cable VS thin cheap cables.
The thinner cables will have more voltage drop, so your headunit may have 4volt preouts, but in the back at the amp you may only see 2.8volts (again a rough estimate).
 

Thank you for breaking it down, unfortunately I can only do a single run of 1/0 with the space I have to work with. The amp I'm using is a B2 audio Mono (~1500 rms) Also my question was about under the hood so I really didn't pay too much mind to the comment on amount of runs to the back that you're responding to.

Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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