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Ok, I did try searching the forums for some answers, and did find a few, but still looking for just some insight from those with more experience than I seem to have. After like 7 years my 10" cvr's took a final shit, and I decided to invest in some new subs...I got lulled into buying a "bass package" from skar with a ported box of 12's and a 350W amp. After a few weeks of breaking it in easily, I'm just not that impressed with the sound. I think the box is under spec, although according to skar CSR it's "fine". The box sits in my 04 Tundra access cab's back seat. I've ear adjusted the amp, all the filters, and my headunit...still not very impressed. So, with tax money (roughly 1k) I'm looking to upgrade, yet again. Better 12's and a bigger amp. I do have my original RF p550.2 but it doesn't seem to want to play well with the skar ix subs. So I'm thinking the Sundown e-12s, and a skar 1500.1d amp...and since I've got like 0 tools, or a place to build an enclosure, I've decided to buy a custom one supposedly made specifically for the e-12 subs. I maybe could build a box, with work tools on a weekend, but I hate to say I'm just baffled by the small details of the box building process, with finding all the port measurements, and what not. So, 04 tundra access cab, box on the back seats, e-12 subs ported, and a 1500 watt amp pushing it. You guys think that would give me some ok ground pounding bass? Basically looking for some advice. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

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I'm sorry I should have included that. I copied the details from the sale link=

This listing is for a custom ported enclosure for two Sundown Audio E-12 subs.   We use 3" aeroports to reduce port noise so you get nothing but clean clear bass from your subs. Also, the subs are recessed 1/2" into the box.   All the joints are glued and screwed together & two 2" dowel braces are included to ensure that the box will hold up against the high output of the subwoofers for as long as you need it to.

Enclosure Details:

- 3/4" MDF Construction

- Port Tubes - 3" Flared x 11" long

- Black automotive carpet (charcoal carpet may be substituted upon request)

- Tuned to 32 Hz. (adjustable by request)

- Exterior Dimensions - 35"wide x 15"tall x 16"deep

- Volume - 3.5 Cubic Ft

- Roughly 50 lbs

- 2 Terminals included

- Sealed air tight with liquid nails caulk

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Well see, that's where I'm running into questions. I've been researching the benefits of running the dvc 2, or 4. I do know the amp I'm interested in, is 1 ohm stable so I'm thinking I'd need to have the 4 ohm variant so it would hook up to the amp and run at 1ohm. However I think I've read 4ohm is most efficient? I'm 42...back in the 90's when I was really into car audio it was pretty much throw some Vegas in a box, and hook them up to a zeus and let it slam. Things have got so much more complicated, now.

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Do you know what ohm load you are currently running? You may be able to buy  skar 1500 and run it at 4 ohms. You may only need a little more power instead of a whole new setup. You could plan for both but try just the amp first.

Sitting around waiting to be installed:

  4 FI X 10

 270 CES alt

D3400/73ah lithium

 AA 3800.1

  (2) AA 75.4

     

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Aren't those e12 400 rms. If you wire it to 1 ohm those subs would see 750 a piece. If the skar does rated I'd be careful wiring to 1 ohm. If it were me I'd get the subs in a 2ohm variant to get a final impedance of 2 ohm. Not as hard on the amp and it will keep your subs right at rated power and Not to mention your electrical will be happier unless you plan on beefing it up in the near future

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