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Crossovers with amp


Cboeger2

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no.

HU>RCA/remote turn on>AMP (no speaker wires from HU to amp needed when using RCA

AMP speaker outputs to crossovers (channel 1 to left front door crossover, channel 2 to right front door crossover, channel 3 to left rear door coaxial (or whatever rear speaker location, channel 4 to right rear coaxial.

from crossover, run wire from woofer out to front woofer, tweeter out to tweeter.

no splicing involved. no speakers outputs from HU involved.

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3 hours ago, reedal said:

no.

HU>RCA/remote turn on>AMP (no speaker wires from HU to amp needed when using RCA

AMP speaker outputs to crossovers (channel 1 to left front door crossover, channel 2 to right front door crossover, channel 3 to left rear door coaxial (or whatever rear speaker location, channel 4 to right rear coaxial.

from crossover, run wire from woofer out to front woofer, tweeter out to tweeter.

no splicing involved. no speakers outputs from HU involved.

Ok so do what I said except don’t run speaker wire from the harness that connects to my factory harness to the amp.

my other question now is, do I splice the speaker wires FL, FR, RL, RR from the head unit harness to the harness that’s going to connect to my factory harness or do I just leave them disconnected and connect the other ones? Because if I connected the speaker wires wouldn’t that mean I’d be powering them by the head unit and not the amp?

 

This also means I’d be running wires from the rear speakers to the amp on the rear channels, correct 

Or wouldn’t connecting speaker wire to the RL/RR on the harness and running it back to the rear channel on the amp and then just connecting the coaxial rear speakers to the factory speaker wiring be the exact same thing? I only ask this because my rear speakers are coming in today and I’m trying to not have to do front/rear speakers and head unit all in the same day. 

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1 hour ago, Cboeger2 said:

Ok so do what I said except don’t run speaker wire from the harness that connects to my factory harness to the amp.

my other question now is, do I splice the speaker wires FL, FR, RL, RR from the head unit harness to the harness that’s going to connect to my factory harness or do I just leave them disconnected and connect the other ones? Because if I connected the speaker wires wouldn’t that mean I’d be powering them by the head unit and not the amp?

 

This also means I’d be running wires from the rear speakers to the amp on the rear channels, correct 

Or wouldn’t connecting speaker wire to the RL/RR on the harness and running it back to the rear channel on the amp and then just connecting the coaxial rear speakers to the factory speaker wiring be the exact same thing? I only ask this because my rear speakers are coming in today and I’m trying to not have to do front/rear speakers and head unit all in the same day. 

exactly what ckeeler11 said. if you're using the amp, and running new speaker wire from there, then you have zero need to connect your head unit speaker outputs to anything that is going to be powered by the amp. I don't know how to break it down any simpler than I already have. put some heat shrink or something on the end of each of your HU speaker outputs to keep them from shorting on anything in the dash. if you're connecting RCAs to your amp from your head unit, then THAT is your signal input to the amp, there's no need to use the high level input. channel 1 out of the amp goes to your left front, channel 2 out from the amp goes to the right front. channel 3 goes to left rear, channel four goes to right rear. That's really as simple as it gets. If you're not confident that you can replicate, then I would recommend asking for assistance from a local shop or someone who is familiar with basic electronics installation.

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49 minutes ago, reedal said:

exactly what ckeeler11 said. if you're using the amp, and running new speaker wire from there, then you have zero need to connect your head unit speaker outputs to anything that is going to be powered by the amp. I don't know how to break it down any simpler than I already have. put some heat shrink or something on the end of each of your HU speaker outputs to keep them from shorting on anything in the dash. if you're connecting RCAs to your amp from your head unit, then THAT is your signal input to the amp, there's no need to use the high level input. channel 1 out of the amp goes to your left front, channel 2 out from the amp goes to the right front. channel 3 goes to left rear, channel four goes to right rear. That's really as simple as it gets. If you're not confident that you can replicate, then I would recommend asking for assistance from a local shop or someone who is familiar with basic electronics installation.

Head unit to factory harness connect all wires except heat shrink the speaker wires so they don’t short out since I don’t need them

 

Head unit-> remote wires/rca to amp

 

 

From amp front +-+- I run speaker wire to the input of the crossover left input for left side +- and right input for right side +- and then connect the woofer to the woofer input and connect the tweeter to the tweeter input for each side. 

 

Rear speakers I run speaker wire to the rear amp terminals +-+-. Left side goes to the left side +-, right side goes to the right side +-

 

I know I explained it weird but it makes sense now. So can someone explain to me how running speaker wire to the input of the crossover gives power to the woofer/tweeter when there’s no speaker wire going to the actual woofer/speaker? Does the input of the crossover recieve power and then come out through the woofer/tweeter output of the crossover. 

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set your crossover switches to the middle setting, AP (all-pass), and that will ensure your amp outputs the entire frequency range to your crossovers and coaxials, set your gain PROPERLY, and the crossover will take the incoming signal (music, tone, etc...) and filter it so only certain frequencies go to the woofer, and only certain frequencies go to the tweeter, so that you are not sending frequencies beyond the playable range of each. The emphasis on setting your gain is because despite how ever many yahoo answers and crutchfield guides, or whoever else says to do it, turning your volume to 3/4 of the way up, and your gain 3/4 of the way up, or any variant of that, is not safe for your speakers/tweeters/subs. the DD-1 or an O-Scope are the only ways to effectlively tune your amps gain without clipping the signal.

 

SMD tool map to help find a DD-1 or other useful car audio tools at a location near you. https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/

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I figured out how this guy did it before, he hooked up speaker wire to the head unit harness that connects to the factory harness and then ran those wires back to the amp. then he spliced a wire for the input of the crossover into the factory door wiring harness and then connected the tweeter/woofer as such. sounds so half ass its not even funny

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