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Alternator or Battery


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2 hours ago, BrokeEF said:

Allow me to clarify a bit.  The car right now is 100% stock.  It IS turning off and on, but very randomly.  Looking around the internet it could possibly be any of the following;

Bad grounds
    I cleaned up the grounds the last time it happened and it was good for months
Internal short in the battery
Internal short in the alternator
Problem with ignition switch

There are some other ideas like bad ECU, bad fuel pump, etc. but those don't explain losing ALL power.  I have a feeling it is something in the battery, alternator,  or possibly the wiring.  As I said I have been planning on doing a system in the car anyway, and I figured if those are the possible issues I will just do them now and also be ready for a system.

It sounds like I should get that battery from the beginning of this post, upgrade the big 3, and do a new stock alternator and I should be good for a small system.  Hopefully that also fixes my problem at the same time.

 

Sean

Ignition switch went out on my 95 accord.  Had to drill out a rivet to get it off the steering column, but $30 later I was back on the road.  Thats an easy one to scratch off the list since its easy to diagnose (wiggle your keys while car is on).

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

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Yesterday when I pulled in the driveway I tried messing with the key quite a bit to see if I could get it to do anything.  I will probably replace it just to cover all the bases, but for now I just ordered an alternator and a Group 27F Northstar AGM battery.  Next up I need to figure out wiring and terminals and get that stuff ordered up as well.

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While I have some experts around, what size should I go with for my big 3?  Again, I am not sure on what amps I will be using but likely around 1k for the sub, and around 100x4 for mids and highs.  Seems like doing 1/0 would be a bit overkill?  Should I run 1/0 to the back for my amps, or again is that overkill?

Thanks,
Sean

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If this tells you anything.. I have a 2014 ford focus with a 150 amp alt, i was told i'd be good for around a 2000 rms system. I pushed around 900rms in a 2013 ford focus with the same 150 amp alt and never had any issues. the car got totaled a month ago, but when it got totaled i was still running the factory battery (which would of been 5+ years old.) these newer cars have better electrical systems due to how they're built 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I figured I would give you guys an update real quick.  Lets start with some before pics.

i-2DxJ3mf-X3.jpg

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I had ordered some wire and lugs from Sky High Car Audio as well as a Northstar 27F battery.  I also got a new alternator and belt from Rockauto.  Everything showed up except the 4ga terminals with 1/4" hole.  Sky High took care of this for me, but between that and the battery being too large I only did the alternator and belt the first weekend.

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I ordered the correct 24F battery, and contacted Sky High about the terminals which they got out right away.  Lets check out some of the parts!

Jims Machine Workx battery terminals with some Sky High copper lugs

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Sky High 4ga and 8ga wire

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Lugs and wire (before I got the missing 4ga 1/4" lugs)

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Here is the correct 24F (BTW the car takes a 51R, but thats another story) next to the too long 27F

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24F with the new terminals

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Crimped lug with some shrink tubing ready to go on

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Battery fits like a glove

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New 4ga to the alternator.  You can see I still have the OEM wire as well.  Long story short I couldn't get to the loom for all of the factory wiring, so to play it safe I left all of the OEM connections in place.

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New grounds.  Factory was only one 4ga to the body.  I redid that (cleaned the paint off of the contact point) and added a 4ga to the transmission on top of the factory ground.  Later I will change the two factory grounds to new 8ga wire.

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Positive side.  Here you can see the two wires that were landed on the battery from the factory.  The white 6ga that ran to the fuse block under hood (that uses a odd terminal so the wire can feed from the bottom), and the  black with yellow stripe 4ga that I assume goes to the starter.  The factory alternator wire (8ga) did not have a direct connection to the battery.  Then you have the new 4ga I ran from the alternator directly to the battery, and a power from my HID relays.

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Whole battery shot.  I will make a nicer tiedown later, I just used the stock one for now.

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Here is the factory positive terminal I took off the car!

i-psLkZmL-X3.jpg

And lastly a whole bay shot showing how dirty my car is :)

i-TMPF7hV-X3.jpg

 

Its nothing special, but so far my problem seems to be fixed and when I put a system in the car I wont have to worry about power.  Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Sean

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