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Am I maximizing the space for my Chevy Spark?


Vexser

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The chevy spark is a small car. Although I never use the back seats, I'm trying NOT to shove a system into this car that fully kills out the back seats. 2014 car, It's my daily driver, I'm not yet after dumping a wall into a 1.2L 85HP toy car.  Right now, I'm running stock alternator ( 120A ) with a Singer alternator on standby. I asked >6 alternator fabricators, they all turned me down. Singer claimed this was their first CNC gutted-out alternator they've done that was converted into a hairpin style alternator.

In the past, I had a JL Audio Powered wedge subwoofer. 10" slim sub ( TW1 ) 400W.  This sub, was able to fit into the spare-tire area of my hatch, and actually take up no hatch space at all. At full tilt, this sub hit on the higher side ( It's small, no surprise ) and it hit rather HARD considering the size.  Meaning, Vision blurs a little, throat tickles, and you really FEEL it good in your chest.
HtEw1h5m.jpg

 

However, I decided I wanted something more, figuring if a slim 10" could sound that loud, and make you REALLY feel it, and make people in the passenger seat go "My glasses were vibrating off my nose" Then, anything 'full size sub' should be better....Right?  Eh..maybe.

So. I dont have much space back there. The seats lean back. the hatch leans back. So the space is /_\ shaped, essentially.  So, Right now...I have a single Sundown X8V2 back there. The box is 27" wide, 10" tall, and 11" deep. This is about the biggest box I can fit, with the seats up. Technically I could add another 10 inches to the width.  So, This became the first subwoofer box I've built, carpeted, etc.  Build out of 3/4" MDF
oWfTSrOm.jpggMSn1JUm.jpg

 

Once all put together, The car was re-wired completely. 1/0 runs all over, 2nd battery,  attention to detail.
NaPkH3Vm.jpgJ50c2g8m.jpg

 

Sooooo Great. It's all installed now, Ready to roll. Hooked up to Sundown 2000W Monochannel amplifier, all connects to a JL Audio TwK Processor for digital crossovers and sound modes...Which is fed over 24-bit 192hz fiber-optic ( TOSLINK ) From a clario digital headunit.  And well, my reactions are hit and miss.  This box is tuned to 32hz. So...it hits deeper. way deeper. So it sounds more 'clear' and more 'Like a really high end imax movie theater'.  However, All that "Feel the bass" is gone. No more chest feels, no more 'rear-view mirror faces down after a few seconds', nothing. Its just loud, and deep.

Now, I understand a 10" has more surface area and pushes more air. What I dont understand, is that sub has a TINY port, and its a slim sub...This is a full-size sub, 8", with a nice roll around it. So it maybe 8" but it can at least excursion more, while having a massive port. ( This was all ran through bassbox pro ).  However, I also know 32hz is going to be less "Feel it" bass than a smaller box that might have been tuned to 50hz ( JL Doesnt list this sepc )

So...Here's my question.  I'm use to JL Stuff. Which is regulated power amplifiers. To their manual, To tune a sub to full potential, You play a 0db 60hz sine wave, and use a meter and mesaure AC Voltage.  Volts = Sqroot ( Watts * Resistance ).  I did 38V, as its 1-ohm running 1500W. To JL Amps, this is 'proper' as per videos and manuals.  To Sundown, I feel its not. The sub is happy though, it doesnt at all look like its doing anything near its max excusion, probably flexing a good inch in total going off the '3D logo illusion' visual guess.

Question two.  2KW amp..I want to maximize the full potetial of this space.  I can get another 10" length at MOST, on this box. I sense this is soo small for a Sundown X10V2. However...What about dual X8V2 subs? Can I run a properly tuned box, with a max of 37" wide, 10" tall, 11" deep that houses two sundown X8V2's? The amp power is there..the wiring is there...it's all there...

I just expected more. I'm a litle bummed a cheap little 10" slim 400W subwoofer was amazing, and this 8" sub, higher excursion and near triple the wattage, was rather .. dull.  Is this the results of choosing between "The deep lows" vs "Feel it in your chest"? If this box wasn't 32hz, but say..50hz instead, would it better my expectations?  I love the deep lows.. I just miss the punch..

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Thanks for the input~

To be clear with my thoughts, What I'm wondering, is whats the best I can squeeze in such a tiny space? Its a horrible space, as all 4 walls slope inwards. I love and hate this car for car audio. the trim is literally cable-trays, and the firewall already had a 2" diameter hole. It was EXTREMELY easy to wire this car, and the small size allows sound to fill the cab.

I'd like to do sundown, as I've always loved their subs.
I'd like to do the power X2 series, for their power/excursion ability.
I'd like to hit those lows ( 32'ish tuned )
I'd like to maximize the space I have, best to my ability, as I love having the "Small car, Big sound" and "Hidden powerful system behind the seats that no one expects"

Space to deal with:  37" Wide, 12" Deep, 10": Tall
This is the 'preferred space' meaning an inch or so may be able to be added ( specially height ) if I make some changes to the way I mount the amps.
I'm fine mounting the sub to face the back of the seats, and pull a seat-down during operation, to take full advantage of space.

Do I have ANY ability to run dual 8" X V.2 series subs? Or any ability to run the 10" X V.2 series, in such a tiny space?
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/x-rev-2-series

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I'm just trying to do this right. Box first, Sub 2nd.  I made that mistake the first time, when I bought a 12" Sundown ZV3 which requires a 32sq-in port..That had no chance to fit in this space.. So, I'm looking for enclosure help.

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Have you tried just flipping your current box to aim up fire just for testing?

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Ah! Sorry I read his comment of "sub up" as upgrade to from an 8" to a 10", my bad.

 

Currently the sub enclosure is on hinges, so it rolls back and gives access to the fuses below. If you look at my first post, i have a picture of the suv facing up. Due to the hinges it sets up farther, and in a small car that means the amps are within arms reach, from the drivers seat.

Ive actually yet to run the sub, with the seats up. So i tried that today, seats up..no top above the amps..sub firing at the hatch. I tried that on my way to work today and it seemed to hit noticbly louder/harder. Not sure if it's because i have it back farther, or because seats up causes a sorta 2nd ported box.

I guess ill have to experiment more, and see if cover on/off makes a difference..and if possible, sub-facing-up, seats up.  Seats down and sub rolled back ( facing up ), how i always ran it, is less. 

I figured I have 200A of alternator and 2000W of amplifier. Only using half the amp's rating. So thats why I had some hopes to squeeze in a little more powerful sub and enjoy the extra craze that comes with it~

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Can you fit the amps and stuff under the seats? Could give you a bit more space to add more cone area if you wanted.

*New vehicle and system coming soon.*

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Mount the amps on the roof and be done with it. 

Walling it is also an option

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  • 2 weeks later...

So..Here's my thoughts.  I always wanted to try out a Sundown X2 series sub, and experience the 30mm xmax. The smallest this is offered, is 10".  If I liked my old 10", It makes sense for me to go this path, IF I can fit the box.

So, Here's what I need help with.  I don't know the best configs, let alone 100% certainty of calculating port size..volume deductions..etc. So, Let me break this down, and perhaps someone can help.

Subwoofer Desired: Sundown Audio 10" XV.2 1500W RMS
Subwoofer Model/config: D2, wired up for 1-Ohm
Subwoofer Displacement: 0.21 Cubic-Feet
Subwoofer Recommended Ported Box Volume: 1.5 Cubic-Feet ( Sundown's website )
Subwoofer Recommended Tuning Frequency: 32Hz
Subwoofer Recommended Port Area: 24 Square Inches
Amplifier ( Currently owning ): SAE-2000D -- RMS at 1-Ohm: 2000W

Vehicle: Chevy Spark 2014 Hatchback
Alternator: 120A Stock, 190A Singer Hairpin-style Alternator in standby.
Batteries: Kinetik HC1200-REV ( 1150CCA, 40Amp-Hour, Low ESR -- 11mOhm if I recall right ) Running a pair.
Wiring: All 1/0 on everything, fully prepped for an upgrade.

Box type: Wedge ( Unless rectangular can do, but..im doubting it )
Port/Sub direction: You tell me..Whats best? Up? Towards the driver ( I'll put a seat down during use, if needed )
Port type: You tell me... Whats better, Rectangular or funnel pipes
Box thickness: You tell me... Never built a box for a heavy sub with 30mm excursion. half inch? 0.75"?
Baffold thickness: You tell me...Again, Never built a box for such a sub. Supports needed? double up for 1 inch?
Bracing?
Tune frequency: Well.. 30mm excursion, its built to hit low..soooo..I presume that means 32hz or lower is best.

Maximum Box Dimensions
- Max Specs 1: 27" W | 15.5" H | 18.0" D1 | 11.0" D2 https://imgur.com/zkIvpx3
- Max Specs 2: 37" W | 12.0" H | 18.0" D1 | 12.6" D2 https://imgur.com/bVCOlQo

Why 2 sizes? If I keep the box below 12 inches tall, It can fit under the rear speakers, Thus allowing 37" Width. If I go above 12", I have to clear the speakers, limiting me to 27"
Note: If I remove my wooden foundation floor ( Just exists to bolt to ) I can gain another 1.5" of height, if needed.

I've never built a box for a sub like this. First time, so I'm new to knowing if it needs bracing, or what port type is best for that insane excursion.

Hope this is enough information, to be helped out, to design a box for this sub. Or..if it's even possible with the space I have.

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If you fire port and sub up your box could have grater depth and therefore greater net volume without being wider or taller than you specify, in that case a 12" could be possible, also a slanted box may not be needed which would make it easier to build.

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