Runing an amp from a battery only?

[shizzzon]

The reason why you are not getting rated power is because of all of the following reasons-

Amplifier outputs are tested on resistive loads.

We can test amplifiers up to 1.2 million watts on the bench with our testing hardware, but our lithium and resistive banks currently prevent us from going that high.
We've only sized our lithium banks to handle about 40,000w right now but our resistive banks can handle about 80,000w.

Amplifiers require the following-
Set temperature
Set frequency
Set DC Voltage
Set THD
Set impedance

IF you do not know all of these beforehand, then you may or may not meet the rated output of the amplifier.

IF the amplifier is rated at 14.4v, then your REACTIVE load must be at 14.4v, not just before the test.
If it's rated at 1ohm, you do NOT use transducers to test the output like you are doing.  Doing so will create variables in the output and attempting to reactively get the output to 1ohm could cause amplifier failure.

Because you are only using a 12v battery, any load put on ANY battery will cause a drop in voltage of some magnitude.  AGMs are poor quality batteries in terms of maintaining voltage under high discharge for car audio.  
Example-  If that battery were 45ah, I estimate putting a 50A load on it would drop it below 12.0v almost immediately with no charge source on it.

Also, if you are actually using a charger/maintainer while discharging, you can damage that as well.

You need an active power supply with at least 1 battery in line.  We sell several of these but that's another topic.

So right now, we know your voltage is too low, your charging source is not proper equipment nor strong enough, your impedance is too high because it's not controlled because using transducers, assuming you are letting the amplifier rip wide open, the THD level will be way above rated and the testing frequency and temperature is probably unknown as most companies hide this information to protect their "quality control."

 

[Krisztián Arnold]

1 hour ago, Kyblack76 said:

Yes  (that the point of my post)

I understand that, however I can only measure the voltage at most.

I do not own an o-scope, or a DD1, or an AMM-1, because it is a bit too expensive for me at the time.

Anyhow if that is the case, and the signal is distorted, my battery still can not handle a 1000W load. So at the end I am still satanding where I started earlier. Or do you think it will chanage in any way, and I will be able to squeeze more power out? 

[Krisztián Arnold]

1 hour ago, shizzzon said:

The reason why you are not getting rated power is because of all of the following reasons-

Amplifier outputs are tested on resistive loads.

We can test amplifiers up to 1.2 million watts on the bench with our testing hardware, but our lithium and resistive banks currently prevent us from going that high.
We've only sized our lithium banks to handle about 40,000w right now but our resistive banks can handle about 80,000w.

Amplifiers require the following-
Set temperature
Set frequency
Set DC Voltage
Set THD
Set impedance

IF you do not know all of these beforehand, then you may or may not meet the rated output of the amplifier.

IF the amplifier is rated at 14.4v, then your REACTIVE load must be at 14.4v, not just before the test.
If it's rated at 1ohm, you do NOT use transducers to test the output like you are doing.  Doing so will create variables in the output and attempting to reactively get the output to 1ohm could cause amplifier failure.

Because you are only using a 12v battery, any load put on ANY battery will cause a drop in voltage of some magnitude.  AGMs are poor quality batteries in terms of maintaining voltage under high discharge for car audio.  
Example-  If that battery were 45ah, I estimate putting a 50A load on it would drop it below 12.0v almost immediately with no charge source on it.

Also, if you are actually using a charger/maintainer while discharging, you can damage that as well.

You need an active power supply with at least 1 battery in line.  We sell several of these but that's another topic.

So right now, we know your voltage is too low, your charging source is not proper equipment nor strong enough, your impedance is too high because it's not controlled because using transducers, assuming you are letting the amplifier rip wide open, the THD level will be way above rated and the testing frequency and temperature is probably unknown as most companies hide this information to protect their "quality control."

 

Thank you a lot! 

It was very informal, in fact more than enough to convince me, why I am not seeing what I paid for, unless I put it in a car. 
Unfortunately I do not know how Hifonics rate their amps, but I assume they test them at 14.0-14.4 volts, as most companies do.

Some small details: I do not use my charger during 'tests'(if you can call it one) , and I tried my best to tune the amp, but I assume I do not get the greatest THD in the entire universe, and I test the amp with my subs connected to it.  
Maybe my best shot is to wait until I can put all of my things in a car, get an o-scope, and learn a bit more about batteries!
Thanks a lot again for helping me out. ?