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A possibly stupid idea for midbass... Tell me what you think


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I don't know if anything on the rear deck would sound good other than maybe some coaxs or components.  Making some sort of enclosure may work, but the inertia of the moving cone would shake the crap out of the deck.  My car came with a Blose 8" open-air sub in the rear deck and I couldn't get the fgn rattles to shut up...  Perhaps the only way to make good use of that deck area is to rebuild the whole dang thing with MDF or plywood and make it a proper enclosure while doing so.

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22 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:

I don't know if anything on the rear deck would sound good other than maybe some coaxs or components.  Making some sort of enclosure may work, but the inertia of the moving cone would shake the crap out of the deck.  My car came with a Blose 8" open-air sub in the rear deck and I couldn't get the fgn rattles to shut up...  Perhaps the only way to make good use of that deck area is to rebuild the whole dang thing with MDF or plywood and make it a proper enclosure while doing so.

I am just saying it would be interesting to play with, you already have and know some of the issue's.  I would fiber glass a enclosure for the 8", sound deaden & luxury liner the shit out of it. Run some 6.5 coax all on low power with a component front stage. Keep it clean and crossed over properly and i bet a guy can get it sounding pretty good for low cost.

IMG_2594_zpsysjciz95.jpg

I know what i would do.... This is my front stage. lol

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5 hours ago, PaCiFiKbAllA said:

I applaud the OP to do what he wants to do whether it be an ambitious project or something simple.  

Having the 8” sealed off would benefit him also if he were to ever remove the 12’s.  He could then cross them lower at that point.

I meant others talking OP out of doing something more complicated... and bc I wish I had more midbass in my own ride. ? 

Either way, whatever he decides to do is cool.  Although Im all for diving into something big because theres so much to learn along the way.

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6 minutes ago, WalledSonic said:

I meant others talking OP out of doing something more complicated... and bc I wish I had more midbass in my own ride. 1f613.png 

Either way, whatever he decides to do is cool.  Although Im all for diving into something big because theres so much to learn along the way.

I miss understood you. My bad.  Ya i love my front stage. First attempt at something big and took forever but was worth it in the end. I meant work with what you have to start with, do the basics of prepping before installing anything. then improve from there. Just did a HU upgrade from a Boss to a Pioneer ApplePlay and with all the nice crossover points on the HU the system came alive. 09 Mercury Mainer SUV with stock amps & a 8" sub in the back. We did replace speakers to RF P683's and used the FAST RING system so i know that helped alot. System was simple but sounded damn good.

Maybe OP could do something similar? Just my 2 cents 

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There is one issue you will run into unless you take care of it.

All speakers are subject to the subs pressure doing very bad things to speakers not enclosed, while the idea is sound for your intended purpose, it does need attention to that one issue.

 

EDIT: I'm referring to speakers in the rear deck location only.

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Thanks everyone for your inputs. 

As of right now I am tearing apart my car to clean (previous owner had huskys... ugh) and to prep for sound deadening everywhere that sounds like a rattle can.

 

My plan is to build a new box and false floor for the trunk to fit a d3400, either a single 15 or two 12s run off a dc 2k (1ohm either way) supplied by two runs of 1/0 ofc to the battery. 

I am running active so I will be using a T400X4ad for the T1675-S as a future upgrade after this major one. Until then I am using deck power from the 80 PRS to power a coaxial 6.5 set in the doors. I might make some custom door panels if I ever want more output but I think this will be enough for now. 

If I ever end up removing the trunk lids cross bar springs (that are so convientely under the 8 inch sub and two 6.5 holes) and have enough room I think I will try to mock up a cardboard representation and see about making that into mdf or birch box under the parcel tray. But the rattles could be too much of an issue to contain so that remains to be seen. 

 

As many of you have mentioned, the most important part about reaching that midbass from behind me is to set a HPF around 70-80 hz and a LPF somewhere around 300 plus sealing off the sub from the trunk. 

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