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I ended up finishing this box a day early so now I have to let it cure for a day but it'll be ready to put into my trunk friday night/saturday morning to plan out the rest of the build and mounting points. For this being my first box I learned a lot but i'm sure I will learn even more on my next go. I think it turned out pretty good besides a few things being off by a 32nd or 16th. I plan on finishing up the chambers with some caulking for extra reinforcement but I think I will leave the port bare so it looks better. 

Planning out the top

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Front baffles on

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Port walls on

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Final Product. Sorry I didn't get any pictures in between as I was focused on finishing the horizontal port walls and top.

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This build was both a learning experience and a fun one. I'd say if your contemplating on whether to buy a box from someone or build one yourself you should give at least a sealed box a chance then move onto ported / band pass. I also recommend a friend to give you an extra set of hands because doing this solo is crazy unless your a pro. Luckily for me this turned into an awesome father son project.

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I was able to fully install the rear battery in its mount/tie down as well as hook up the two runs of pos/neg. I forgot to take a photo so I'll post more tomorrow but I think I will be able to test the sub install within a day or two, and the new highs and mids within a week. 

For now here are the pictures I took

There is a panel that goes behind the sub box but I am leaving it out until the final install so I can remove the carpet sides easier

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I was able to use a scrap piece of mdf for my amp rack and marked out/drilled the holes to mount the sub amp as well as plan out where the mids and highs amp will go. Currently the idea is to set the sub amp to the right and the mids/highs amp to the left so I can still adjust the tuning of all amps without killing my neck.

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Here is the base of the battery tie down, but I was able to finish this with two taller pieces of mdf on the left/right sides then shorter pieces on the front/back sides. I also added a top piece that screws into either side piece. The only issue I had with this was that I rushed it together

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I also hooked up both fuses for the main power lines to the rear battery. I don't have the rear fuse pictured but I will update tomorrow.

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My idle voltage with both hooked up stays around 14.3-14.2. I will be putting in my HO alt after some testing without it to see the effect it has on my system.

 

 

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After I get everything working and tested I'll come back with some carpet probably. Try to get some that matches the interior. I was thinking of doing a dual color carpeting job, so there is some spazzaz to the build. Maybe black to match then some blue accents with diagonal sections. 

The trunks pretty damn big for a tiny ass engine bay .... but I made it work. The box just barely slid in with some fanaglin 

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The clouds decided to shift westward so I was able to work today and take some more pics.

Here is the battery mount: I used screws and wood glue to attach the sides and some blue towels to lay between the sides/bottom and the battery so I could get it in two nights ago (I took out the towels just today.) Currently it is pretty solid but to be safe I attached a top tie down from a scrap piece with some screws that are just hand tightened so I can untighten with a screwdriver if need be.

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Here is a shot of me planning the power runs to the fuse holders for the amps. I am using two runs of 1/0 sky high for my sub amp but recycled 4 gauge ofc tinned kicker (black wire - I will be using the blue but the black already had a lug on it so I just used it for testing) from my previous build as my highs/mids amp power and ground. I didn't get a picture but I finished the two runs for the sub amp but have yet to do the 4 gauge run yet.

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Here is a pic of my mounting for my fuse holders. I also plan on putting a distribution block above these for any additional accessories like LEDs or a train horn in the rear bumper ?

I used screws to mount the L-brackets to the amp rack but machine screws / bolts to mount the fuse holder to the L-brackets to make my life easier when taking this piece in and out if I ever have to remove the amp rack. Which is only able to be removed if I tilt it up then pull it out ... 

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I decided to wire the subs outside the car.. and I am so glad I did this. I am using 10 ga sky high and one of these wires just barely fits in the terminals, but two? Nope. I had to shave down each wire about half then twist together and put them in that way. I will be replacing this method for another that is cleaner and easier when I take the box out to carpet everything. I will be using spring terminals on the left and right sides of the box with threads on the opposing side so I can parallel the voice coils there instead of at the sub for a 2 ohm load on both pos/neg and finally into the amp where it will be paralleled internally to a 1 ohm load nominal... 

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My subs have a trim piece around them but I also had bought some grills with my previous install. I'm not sure if I will keep the grills or take them out but regardless I just attached the sub by its two sides so it made attaching the four corners of the trim piece easier because you have to put the trim on first then screw in the last four corners...

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Oh man I am ready to have subs again. It has been a long month without bass but I am only a few days away from testing it!

1 minute ago, bcbrassard said:

Looking good man. Just finished my system & have subs again. 

Keep up the good work!

 

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Had just enough time today to get some stuff done. Other than getting the other sub mounted, the rest was setting up wires like RCAs / remote / bass knob / power

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Had to remove this panel again so I could contain the excess of my RCAs. I have three pairs of 20 ft (overkill yes) but I originally was going to mount my amps to the back of the box so I wanted to give myself options... Turns out I had a few feet of extra cable to manage behind the panels. I'll end up putting some foam under these cables to reduce the rattles probably. 

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I think if I'm lucky I can test it tomorrow, but that depends on the weather.... thanks Alberto / Florida's bipolar weather...

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Really nice, lots of work and time

—————————————————————————————————————

HU - Alpine - CDA-9887R

Changer - Alpine - CHA-S624

Amp - RF - R600x5

Front Speakers - RF - P165-SI + Alpine SPG-10C2

Rear Speakers - RF - P1650

Sub - RF - P2D4-10 on Vented Box 

 

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I got the sub part of this build done and tested. I would say it reached my expectations but I definetly would have even better with a better set of 12s. These will do until the next upgrade but I have my eyes on either a set of DC level 4 12s or a pair of SSD12s etc.

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Used some electrical tape to insulate the dual inputs just to be safe. 10 ga through port is temporary as I have said before.

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