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Requesting dual Sundown X8 box help


Vexser

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Heya! I simply need to know if this "maximum box size" is able to support a dual Sundown X8 subwoofer, and if so, I'm looking for some direction/specs, as I've never built a dual-sub system to know if port-size has to double etc etc.

Vehicle: Chevy Spark 2014 LT ( Fairly small )

Subwoofer: Dual Sundown Audio X8 D4 ( VC's in parallel for 2 ohms, 2 drivers in parallel for 1 ohm total )
https://speakerboxlite.com/subwoofers/sundown-audio-x-8-v2-d4

Amplifier: SCV-2000D ( 1-Ohm runs 2000W RMS )

Desired Tuning: 32hz, Deep lows, I listen to a lot of EDM music, and a lot of them have drawn-out lows that his waaaay down there.

Idea 1: Drop the box into the spare-tire area. This has a max length of 21" and max width of 13.5", This would allow for ~16" height, which gives you 2.69 cubic feet prior-to calculating displacements. I'm 100% open to the idea of inverting the subs, so I can display the magnets, especially if the box is too-small for regular mounting. A box this size would give me plenty of room for amp mounting.

Idea 2: H: 12  L: 37  W: 12.5  ( Seats are tilted back, this dimension would be to avoid a slanted box )

Idea 3: H: 15.5 L: 27 W: 11 ( Again, Seats are tilted back )

Idea 1 is the most-preferred optimal, if possible. This would give me room to mount the amps, 2nd battery, crossovers, etc. Rather the subs are in the box, or inverted sticking out the top or out the sides ( I'll build around it to make it look pretty ). Else, Idea 2 is 2nd preferred.  Right now, I'm running a single, measuring at H: 11 L: 27 W: 9.75, Which I feel was "Firewood" designed ( not..properly calculated ) despite it sounds great, and hits DEEP making air move with what I'd guess is near 20hz or lower. Love the box..just want 2 for more air being displaced for more basshead fun. But the size of that box, makes me feel 2 subs, would require a box thats impossible to fit in my space.. Which suuuuucks. As I feel a dual-8 would be my closing-project to this car and make me happy with it.
 

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Idea #1 only yields 1.96 ft^3 with 3/4" material, which is the minimum thickness you will need. This would be perfect for a sealed box, but not enough space for ported at that low of a frequency unless subs inverted and port all external.

 

25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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Idea 2 is pretty much the only feasible option. Even with that space, I'm having a hard time meeting that port area requirement from Sundown and tuning to 32hz. Can get tuned to 34.44 hz and land right on the minimum box size, and within the port area requirement.

~~~~BOX DESIGN~~~~
-------BOX------
Box Height: 12''
Box Height 2: N/A''
Box Width: 37''
Box Depth: 12.5''
Box Depth 2: N/A''
-------PORT------
Port Height: 10.5''
Port Width: 2''
Port Length: 28''
Length of External Port: 0''
Physical Port Length: 25.25''
Number of Extra Baffles: 0
Baffle Thickness: 0.75''
Baffle Displacement: 0 ft³
Sub Displacement: 0.21 ft³
Bracing Displacement: 0 ft³
Gross Volume: 2.37 ft³
Port Volume: 0.66 ft³
Port Area Per Cube: 14.00 in²
Port Area: 21.00 in²
Net Volume: 1.50 ft³
Tuning Frequency: 34.44 Hz
~~~~CUT SHEET~~~~
------BOX------
Top: 37'' x 12.5''
Bottom: 37'' x 12.5''
Sides (x2): 10.5'' x 11.0''
Front/Back: 37'' x 10.5''
Back Height: N/A
Angled Piece: N/A
------PORT------
Port Top/Bottom: Too complex to display
Port Side(s): Too complex to display

25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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Got me tryin' the impossible... .75" baffle, .5" braced for the rest. Gonna be a collection of compromises but turned out fairly well, I tried to find a doable happy medium. IMO this ought to do pretty well, maybe slap another .25" panel on the back to help that back port wall. Swiss watch time!

 

vuakEh.jpg

 

Might work out well... I'd do it.

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HellBilly429 - Would you really even notice much a difference between 32hz VS 34hz anways? I cant imagine the difference is night/day.
When you say "Port Length 28 inches"  How is that measured? A or B? ( https://imgur.com/E9mzdDG ) I'm just trying to learn.

Shredder2 - Thanks for the reply as well, I'm trying to figure out if your box-model is your own, or what HellBilly429 wrote up? Since I just see external measurements, but no port width / length and such.  If it's not a model based on HellBilly's dimensions, could you add a little? I mean, I could caliper my screen and do the math but.. xD

Thanks for the help. I tried messing with calculation sites and it shows I dont know what I'm doing. Crafting is the easy part for me..

Also, Could you recommend me position?  Should I fire the subs + port up? Or ( To give me amp-mounting room if needed ) could I fire the port into the back of the seats, and simply pull the seat down to fully expose the port?  Either way, its in the same "cabinet" There's no separate trunk. So, maybe it wont matter either-way.

Guess I have a choice to make here..with 2 box-designs given to me. Unless again, that model is just a picture-form of  the above!

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Port length is the line down the center of the port. Physical port length is the length the boards need to be cut to equal that port length (ex. with port up sub up  3/4" thick front baffle=3/4" of port length, plus an 8" long board for port, plus the 3/4" thickness of the board, then 15 3/4" board length to get to that 25 1/4" physical port length. So your port cuts should be 10.5"x8" and 10.5"x15 3/4" for a standard L port.

I am not sure how Shredder2 got "more port area" and slightly lower tuning with the same dimensions and some thinner material, but I am sure that all the additional bracing was not taken into effect. I would not recommend running 2000 watts in a box made of mostly 1/2" mdf.

As for your question about sub and port orientation, sub up port up, or sub back port back if it's a hatchback. As long as sub is on same facing as the port, you won't effect tuning from the specs above.

A 2hz difference in box tuning will most likely not have an audible effect with those subs, but will technically emphasize the higher hz ranges than the 28-32hz range. Unless you're competing for spl in ranges below 30hz, or are looking for a flatter response for SQL competition (lower tuning generally gives a flatter response) then I doubt you will notice a difference.

25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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6 minutes ago, Hellbilly429 said:

Port length is the line down the center of the port. Physical port length is the length the boards need to be cut to equal that port length (ex. with port up sub up  3/4" thick front baffle=3/4" of port length, plus an 8" long board for port, plus the 3/4" thickness of the board, then 15 3/4" board length to get to that 25 1/4" physical port length. So your port cuts should be 10.5"x8" and 10.5"x15 3/4" for a standard L port.

I am not sure how Shredder2 got "more port area" and slightly lower tuning with the same dimensions and some thinner material, but I am sure that all the additional bracing was not taken into effect. I would not recommend running 2000 watts in a box made of mostly 1/2" mdf.

As for your question about sub and port orientation, sub up port up, or sub back port back if it's a hatchback. As long as sub is on same facing as the port, you won't effect tuning from the specs above.

A 2hz difference in box tuning will most likely not have an audible effect with those subs, but will technically emphasize the higher hz ranges than the 28-32hz range. Unless you're competing for spl in ranges below 30hz, or are looking for a flatter response for SQL competition (lower tuning generally gives a flatter response) then I doubt you will notice a difference.

Every component is accounted for ... All displacements are subtracted... lol... I wouldn't post it unless it is accurate.

Winisd modeled, Torres translated, Sketchup drawn then volumes back checked with Sketchup with end-corrected port length. Then Winisd is used for the final tune...

It's as dead-on as I could do it... not my 1st rodeo man

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I just crunched the numbers in Torres, I had no idea how much space could be gained back by using 1/2" material. I stand corrected!

That being said, wouldn't he need to brace the entire box running 2000 watts in 1/2" material to keep the box rise down?

25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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