CorNut Posted July 15, 2018 Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 I got some old (new/unused) gear for a family member to use. It's an Audiopipe APSM-1300 & a 10" Pioneer Champion Pro TS-W250D2D combo that cost $150. The sub says maximum 1.2 cu ft for a ported box, I did a rough measurement of the box I'm building and it's close to 2 cu ft. It's a 2ohm DVC sub, 800RMS, 3000peak & the amp is supposedly 1000w RMS @1ohm. Where I did the fiberglass mold is a recessed area in the trunk, I didn't realize it was so big. I'm too far along to start over, apparently my math was bad in the planning stages. Should I find another sub for the build? I have a few more layers of fiberglass to do plus install the front (wood), I'll have time to finish it next week. This was supposed to be a cheap upgrade so I'd hate to spend more on a better sub if it can be avoided. Being a cheap sub and not finding much for reviews/info, I'm not sure how it'd hold up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrackFactory Posted July 15, 2018 Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 Did you subtract port displacement and subwoofer diaplacement? Maybe increase port area if it's possible to take up even more space in the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorNut Posted July 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 Yup, if I up it from a 3" or 4" port, it'll need to be longer than the box can accommodate unless I use 90's, that'd get confusing for me. I was thinking I can put some dowels in there as support which would help(down to ~1.75?), maybe I need to read up on how to calculate elbows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorNut Posted July 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 I think I figured it out, instead of a round port, I can do a ~1.5"x12" slotted port. I'll have to do a lot of angles but it should drop the box volume to where it needs to be and it'll maintain ~35hz tuning. This is going in the back corner of a Grand Prix, with that style of port, it'll be on the baffle/firing sideways like the sub. This change would make my port area 18 sq inch with an 8:1 aspect ratio on a (hopefully) 1.2 cu ft enclosure. Would I be better off keeping it large with a round port? That's a lot less work if there's no real benefit adhering to Pioneer's max vented size. I'm unsure on the dependability of these subs, the amp (.15 THD) is rated @ 1000w RMS, sub is rated @ 800w RMS I'm off to a bad start, I split the wood in a few spots. I'll use wood glue plus reinforce those areas with fiberglass, I've yet to have a box go as planned. edit* added a photo of the box. It's ugly, It's just the mold attached to the sides. I'll be (hopefully) finishing it next week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 15, 2018 Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 Didnt read everything. But, A I doubt half a cube will matter, and it seems like OEM always "recommends" on the smaller side, and B eating up half a cube is easy. Stick a 18 pack of beer or, wood in the box (help with strength anyway) if its that big of a deal. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted July 15, 2018 Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 HonestLy dude, I think you're over thinking it. Just lane the box alone at its current commune of 2 cubes. You'll get better lows from it anyway likely. As Kyle mentioned, manufacturers often times suggest a low end figure to look more attractive and be able to fit an average application. I don't think 2 cubes is going to kill you on this build. Worst case, you need to back the gain on the amp off a little bit so you are sending a bit less power to the sub and gain some cone control back of it sounds funky. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorNut Posted July 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 3 hours ago, CleanSierra said: HonestLy dude, I think you're over thinking it. Just lane the box alone at its current commune of 2 cubes. You'll get better lows from it anyway likely. As Kyle mentioned, manufacturers often times suggest a low end figure to look more attractive and be able to fit an average application. I don't think 2 cubes is going to kill you on this build. Worst case, you need to back the gain on the amp off a little bit so you are sending a bit less power to the sub and gain some cone control back of it sounds funky. 5 hours ago, Kyblack76 said: Didnt read everything. But, A I doubt half a cube will matter, and it seems like OEM always "recommends" on the smaller side, and B eating up half a cube is easy. Stick a 18 pack of beer or, wood in the box (help with strength anyway) if its that big of a deal. round it is then. That'll make life easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckeeler11 Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 On 7/14/2018 at 11:10 PM, CorNut said: Yup, if I up it from a 3" or 4" port, it'll need to be longer than the box can accommodate unless I use 90's, that'd get confusing for me. I was thinking I can put some dowels in there as support which would help(down to ~1.75?), maybe I need to read up on how to calculate elbows. A 4" port is going to be to small for that setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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