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2 Skar Audio 12's ported in common chamber, help?


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On 7/24/2018 at 8:19 AM, Basshead911 said:

I have just recently gotten back into the Car Audio scene since the mid 90's and I can't believe all the advancments! I have built my first enclosure in almost 20 years and I have some questions.

Its a slotted vent enclosure with 2 12" Skar Audio EVL-12's. I was given the dimensions by the guys over at Skar audio, so I'm pretty confident in the design and tuning. Its in a 2011Jeep Wrangler, subs up port back. It is being pushed by a single RP-2000.1D. Subs wired in parallel so amp sees 1 ohm load. Jeep only has Big 3 electrical upgrades for now. 

My question is, in a vented enclosure, is it normal for the subs to move slightly off from one another? They definitely aren't out of phase and they are both moving in the same direction at the same time, but one seems to move slightly more than the other at times? Not always though so it may be frequency dependent?? I have a shot video clip, just not sure if I can post that here. Can it have anything to do with sub placement in relation to the port opening for the slotted vent? Ill attach a few pics of the enclosure being built for reference. Thanks and mu apologies if this has been posted before but I couldn't find anything specific. 

 

Looks like if you follow the link below you can see the enclosure and the video of what I'm experiencing. 

https://flic.kr/p/29nz6ro

 

This box style prevents uneven loading issues if you suspect you have that, there are other things to check as well like if you have one sub broken in and the other one not, possibly poor electrical contact somewhere in your sub wiring, you can also swap driver locations and see what happens, if it behaves the same likely it's a box issue.

 

T.Port_E1.jpg

 

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On 7/26/2018 at 3:26 PM, ckeeler11 said:

There should be some more internal bracing. those are some big panels and will be flexing if not supported.

There is an internal Brace between the 2 subs approx 4 inches wide from top to bottom...the baffle is also 1.5" thick, doubled up 3/4 birch plywood...the panel does not flex at all that I can see. Do I need more than that? I appreciate the input! 

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19 hours ago, Joe X said:

 

This box style prevents uneven loading issues if you suspect you have that, there are other things to check as well like if you have one sub broken in and the other one not, possibly poor electrical contact somewhere in your sub wiring, you can also swap driver locations and see what happens, if it behaves the same likely it's a box issue.

 

T.Port_E1.jpg

 

That design makes more sense for even loading....already in to this enclosure for some decent money so Im going to run it for awhile. I will however try to move the subs around and see if the problem follows....Id hope neither of the subs were broke in before I received them! lol

Thanks for the input, hopefully moving the subs will reveal something! 

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12 hours ago, bmwking said:

this is an important question that shouldn't go unanswered

You can see it with your eyes, thats the main reason I took the video. After I noticed them moving differently I thought it would be a good idea to send a video to Skar and get their input. They are the ones that lead me to the internet to check for tuning issues???

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Ok so today I noticed that Im getting a slight crackle or what almost sounds like a popping noise in one of the subs....I moved it from left to right and the noise followed... I triple checked the wiring, all good nothing loose, its all 8g from the amp to the speakers and from each voice coil to the other....theres nothing hitting the subs internally that would cause that noise...it doesn't happen all the time, certain frequencies seem to make it worse and its not the low frequencies either....Im really not sure what to check? Could one of the voice coils be bad or going bad which is also causing the movements to be different? Whats the best way to determine if a voice coil is going bad other than if it had a straight short or open? I don't want to damage the other sub or my amp, Ive had this setup in my jeep for less than a full week!!! Im open to any and all suggestions. I did send another email to Skar today too so hopefully I will hear from them Monday! HELP! lol 

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On 7/28/2018 at 8:54 PM, Basshead911 said:

You can see it with your eyes, thats the main reason I took the video. After I noticed them moving differently I thought it would be a good idea to send a video to Skar and get their input. They are the ones that lead me to the internet to check for tuning issues???

cool, just making sure one that.  sometimes cameras make subs look like they're doing something wrong but they're actually fine.

 

as for the crackle, that definitely sounds like something going wrong.  only way to tell if it's a coil really is to meter each coil and see if they match and are within spec.  ie a 4 ohm coil on a typical sub will usually read about 3.4.  with the system off can you slowly push down on the sub and feel anything rough or hear the crackle?  it sounds to me like some sort of manufacturer defect is going on.  i'd contact skar about a warranty.

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14 hours ago, bmwking said:

cool, just making sure one that.  sometimes cameras make subs look like they're doing something wrong but they're actually fine.

 

as for the crackle, that definitely sounds like something going wrong.  only way to tell if it's a coil really is to meter each coil and see if they match and are within spec.  ie a 4 ohm coil on a typical sub will usually read about 3.4.  with the system off can you slowly push down on the sub and feel anything rough or hear the crackle?  it sounds to me like some sort of manufacturer defect is going on.  i'd contact skar about a warranty.

When I push on the sub I don't hear or feel anything out of the ordinary, Ill have to check the resistance on each coil this afternoon... if theres a variance between them, is there a range that they should fall in? I mean im assuming it would be obvious if there were something wrong with the resistance ozone of the coils? 

 

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If something's wrong with the resistance it should be obvious, the coils should be the same.  Granted if your meter is cheap it may have a tolerance range so keep that in mind.  Strange that you can hear but not feel mechanical noise in it...  hmmm

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Do you have a terminal cup on your box for your speakers to hook up to? If so somthing there could be loose causing an issue. Especially if its a cheap spade connector one. I may have missed u saying it but have you pulled the woofers and powered each outside the box on moderate volume to listen for noise? Hook each one strait to the amp wen u do it to eliminate noise from a loose connection. How long have u had the woofers? You could possibly warranty them if one has started failing. If one did fail it makes me wonder y. How did you set gains? Use bass knob? Hu settings?

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