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updated w/pic. Install finished


CorNut

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This is probably a silly question, but I built a fiberglass enclosure that comes to 1.22 cu ft after the woofer's displacement. I haven't used a flared port before, and even though they provided instructions, I don't totally understand them. I typically use an online port length calculator since I've always done slot or straight PVC ports. Is the formula they give already subtracting the volume the port takes up? I'm confused. I'm including a pic of the instructions, the port itself is 2" ID, 2 1/8" OD but then there's the flares which I'm not totally sure how to account for. This is for a 10" Pioneer Champion Pro:

Pioneer TS-W2502D2 
Handling:       800W RMS/3,000W peak
Impedence:      Dual 2-ohm
Sensitivity:    89 +/- 1.5dB
Freq. Response: 20Hz-150Hz
Displacement:   0.117 cu ft
Revc:           Dual 1.5
Levc:           3.07 4-ohm(series) / 0.76 1-ohm (parallel)
Zmax:           68.48 4-ohm(series) / 16.56 1-ohm (parallel)
Fs:             34.7 Hz
Qms:            14.73
Qes:            0.69
Qts:            0.66
Vas:            6.23 ltr / .222 cu ft
Rms:            4.994 N.S/m
Mms:            339.19 g
Cms:            0.0619 mm/N
Diam:           7.9" / 200mm
Sd:             313 sq cm / 48.6 sq inch
BL:             18.08 4-ohm(series) / 9.04 1-ohm (parallel)
Xmax:           11mm / 0.43"
Hvc:            45mm / 1.77"
Hag:            23mm / 0.91"

 

This is a daily driver, I'm trying to make the most out of what little space is available. If I understand it correctly, I get 5.665 for Lv, which means I need the center piece to be ~1.66" for 35hz, is it that simple?

portinst.jpg

porteff.gif

port.jpg

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2" diameter port is way too small. but 4" length will get you 35hz

4" would be better. 

full length 4" port you would need 17" for a 38hz tune

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21 minutes ago, strangeduck said:

2" diameter port is way too small. but 4" length will get you 35hz

4" would be better. 

full length 4" port you would need 17" for a 38hz tune

4" overall length flare to flare or the center piece for the 2" port? Being 3 pieces and different sizes has me messed up. I do have a 3" port, I purchased 3" (owners manual actually says to use 3") as well but decided the smaller port would be better since I may not have enough length available to run a 3". Do you know how long the 3" port should be to get the most out of it? It'll be used for rap/R&B. I don't mind not using the flares if there's no real benefit. That may help with having enough length to fit the ports in there.

Depending on the length, I may be able to squeeze the 3" port in there if I face it to the rear. The plan was to have both the sub & port to the side but I won't be doing the baffle until tomorrow so that hasn't been cut out yet. 

I was under the assumption, smaller port=port noise but since this will be in a trunk where that won't be heard, I figured the more airspace would be a better idea. Is that not the case? I went flared since I read the flared port helps with the noise. I appreciate you taking the time to help, I want to make sure I do this right.

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3 hours ago, strangeduck said:

12" for a 3" port. total length. 

 

http://www.psp-inc.com/tools2.html

 

the port volume for a 3" port at 12" is is like .06 cuft. i wouldnt even worry about port displacement.

I couldn't take the suspense, I had to test fit it. It does fit, though it leaves about 5/8" distance between the speaker terminals and wall of the port inside the box. If I have to, I'll rotate the sub in the box. I'm happy going with 3" over 2", I originally planned to but decided it probably wouldn't fit, there's no way I could've done 4". This is going in the back corner of the trunk, there''ll be a few inches between the port and the back of the trunk, hopefully it's enough space. I'll finish the box tomorrow, I have a lot of filling & sanding to do.

 

MVIMG_20180804_174110.jpg

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