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Hey guys so this might be a little different than normal Big 3 questions. Did some searching and couldn’t find much info on this.

my question is. I have an Infiniti G37 sedan, currently running 1500 watts rms along with a full electronic air suspension system. I’ve upgraded the battery to a xs power d3400r and now want to do the big 3. Only problem is that on these specific cars we have a sensor (Battery Current Sensor) that connects from the battery negative to the chassis ground. If I run a 1/0 wire to ground the negative battery to chassis I will bypass that sensor and will give battery issues. So my question is, is running I guess what you’d call in this case a “Big 2?” Beneficial? Meaning just running a 1/0 wire from Alternator + To battery + and running a 1/0 from the engine block to chassis. I don’t plan on grounding the battery to the chassis with any additional wires but I know that grounding the battery is the most important part of the big 3? So is it worth doing the “Big 2” or should I just not run any additional wires for juice. I just want to make sure my charging system is getting as much juice as possible without hurting the vehicles charging system due to the Battery Current Sensor. (Also there’s no way of not running the sensor it’s been confirmed). Any info would be greatly appreciated; thanks!

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Does the factory ground have the battery current sensor? Why not just leave the factory ground and add in the 1/0 wire additionally? 

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7 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

Does the factory ground have the battery current sensor? Why not just leave the factory ground and add in the 1/0 wire additionally? 

Yeah the factory ground has the current sensor. I had originally wanted to do it this way (leaving the factory ground with the sensor) until I learned how the sensor works :( , apparently people have done it this way and have had tons of battery dying issues which I’m trying to completely avoid...I have copied and pasted a response that I found on the Infiniti forums to better explain why I can’t add a secondary ground.

 

Battery current sensor is installed to the battery cable at the negative
terminal, and it detects the charging/discharging current of
the battery and sends the voltage signal to ECM according to the
current value.
By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of
the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased.So when you ground the battery directly to the car chassis, you are bypassing the battery current sensor. This sends a signal telling the ECM the battery is full, so the alternator is turned down. This normally is a feature that would help you save gas, but it is working against you when you modify the system with the grounding cable. The car is not charging the battery.”

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wow that is some bs, and here I thought my civics electric load detector was shitty... 

The only compromise I think you could make is either do a big 2 as you referred to, or by somehow using the current sensor but splicing on 1/0 wire between it and the chassis's grounding location. I'm not sure if that would even be beneficial let alone worth your time

 

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21 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

wow that is some bs, and here I thought my civics electric load detector was shitty... 

The only compromise I think you could make is either do a big 2 as you referred to, or by somehow using the current sensor but splicing on 1/0 wire between it and the chassis's grounding location. I'm not sure if that would even be beneficial let alone worth your time

 

Yeah bro when I first read about it I thought it was nuts! Luckily I read about it before just installing it like I normally would. I’ll most likely do the “big 2” in this case to avoid any issues later down the road, last question. Is doing in this case the “big 2” still Beneficial for my current flow somehow ? Or does the lack of upgraded ground defeat the purpose? P.s I appreciate your replies! 

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From the g37 service manual, For this model, the battery current sensor that is installed to the battery cable at the negative terminal measures the charging/discharging current of the battery, and performs various controls.   If the electrical component or the ground wire is connected directly to the battery terminal, the current other than that being measured with the battery current sensor is charging to or discharging from the battery. This condition causes the malfunction of the control, and then the battery discharge may occur. Do not connect the electrical component or the ground wire directly to the battery terminal.

 

Electrical systems are starting to be a pita but for what its worth, you do have some options here.

Option 1, take it to the dealer and have them disable the variable voltage regulator output from the ecu, that way you can just remove the clamp.

Option 2, run your new cable through the existing clamp, though sometimes it doesn't fit.

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