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29 minutes ago, Ron36 said:

These are specs on a DD M2 amp at 1ohm. At 12volts 1700rms and at 14volts 2400rms, Big difference. 

B5F90C63-D11E-4B05-9DC6-C53CB4EF159B.png

Okay, so that explains a lot !:D 
Thanks for posting it. I honestly did not think it is such a big impact.

I know my amp is not even close to a DD not in build quality or in any other way, but I also do not have the budget

(at least right now) for it, to be clear. 

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17 hours ago, CleanSierra said:

The amp is rated at 2000W RMS guys, look it up on Sonic Electronix, Jesus Christ guys did some research. The reason you are not seeing anywhere near 2K is because of impedance rise. Wired at 1 ohm nominal, you're likely rising to 2 ohms plus and hence you're 800W RMS result.

That's what I've said multiple times, and so did the guy that I quoted first.  I've also stated that I think those results are good for the amp that's being tested. 

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13 hours ago, Krisztián Arnold said:

Yes I accept everything you say except I do not think my voltage drops to 10 or somewhere around it. That is becouse AGM batteries are very sensitive voltage wise, and at most it would die out on me around 11.9 since from that point on it is concidered to be on 0% of charge level. 

Also your answers are incredibly helpful, but no one could come up with an answer to the question of that if I dropp my voltages so low, than howcome I can not reach even just a better number on burst after fully charging my batteries. 

Why should my resistence be DC if the amp is putting out ac amperages and ac voltages?

If you don't know the resistance on the circuit, you don't really know what you're testing.  I said dc, but it doesn't really matter.  Ohms is ohms, resistance is resistance (things can get a little weird in ac circuits, which is why a resistive load is necessary for accurate measurements).  If your results are at 2 ohms +, the amp is doing what it's supposed to do.  You can argue about what you think your voltage drops to all you want, or you can actually measure it.  The actual load you're putting on the amp, and the voltage you're putting into the amp are both extremely important factors for the test you're trying to do.  Repeatedly ignoring them is not going to help you answer your questions. 

11 hours ago, CrackFactory said:

So from my limited understanding you cannot measure the resistance accurately while power is applied. To calculate box rise measure the ac voltage and ac amperage from the amplifier. Divide the voltage measured by the amperage and you will have your resistance. 

When amplifiers are dyno'd they use a resistor not a speaker so its not subject to box rise and stays the same resistance throughout testing as opposed to a subwoofer that will raise and lower depnding on frequency.

So, since the amplifier is rated at 2000 watts @ 1 ohm with 14.4v and you're getting 800 watts @ 1 ohm+box rise with less than 12.8v seems very acceptable.

Dont take my word for it though. Learn ohms law and you can learn how to calculate almost anything with just two measurements.

This is what I've been trying to say, but I must not be saying it right. 

 

4 hours ago, Krisztián Arnold said:

Do you think, that 1.6 volts can actually make such a huge impact so it makes half the power? 

It isn't making half the power, but 2 volts makes a significant difference (and you're likely closer to 3-4v lower than the 14+ rating).  The amp is rated to do 2000w @ 1ohm @ 14+ volts.  It's highly unlikely the load on the amp is below 2 ohms, which means it should be doing closer to 1000w at 14v (if the load were exactly 2 ohms, which it's probably more than that), remove 2+ volts from the equation and end up at 800 watts.  That sounds reasonable to me.  I think the amp is doing what it's supposed to and you don't understand how the amp works.

It doesn't do 2000w all the time, just because you wired your sub to 1 ohm.  That load changes dramatically while the speaker is in use (that's one reason why this way of testing is flawed). If the load goes up to 10ohms, guess what the amp does with that load?  200ish watts.  Does your load rise that much?  I don't know and neither do you because you refuse to take this measurement into account. 

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2 hours ago, paidnfull said:

If you don't know the resistance on the circuit, you don't really know what you're testing.  I said dc, but it doesn't really matter.  Ohms is ohms, resistance is resistance (things can get a little weird in ac circuits, which is why a resistive load is necessary for accurate measurements).  If your results are at 2 ohms +, the amp is doing what it's supposed to do.  You can argue about what you think your voltage drops to all you want, or you can actually measure it.  The actual load you're putting on the amp, and the voltage you're putting into the amp are both extremely important factors for the test you're trying to do.  Repeatedly ignoring them is not going to help you answer your questions. 

This is what I've been trying to say, but I must not be saying it right. 

 

It isn't making half the power, but 2 volts makes a significant difference (and you're likely closer to 3-4v lower than the 14+ rating).  The amp is rated to do 2000w @ 1ohm @ 14+ volts.  It's highly unlikely the load on the amp is below 2 ohms, which means it should be doing closer to 1000w at 14v (if the load were exactly 2 ohms, which it's probably more than that), remove 2+ volts from the equation and end up at 800 watts.  That sounds reasonable to me.  I think the amp is doing what it's supposed to and you don't understand how the amp works.

It doesn't do 2000w all the time, just because you wired your sub to 1 ohm.  That load changes dramatically while the speaker is in use (that's one reason why this way of testing is flawed). If the load goes up to 10ohms, guess what the amp does with that load?  200ish watts.  Does your load rise that much?  I don't know and neither do you because you refuse to take this measurement into account. 

So I think that summs everyting that I was asking, and curious about, and also what I did wrong. :D
Thank you for constantly helping me, you did a lot, and I apprechiate your efforts!

2 last things that came to my mind. 1) Can an ultracapacitor bank help me with my "drop" in terms of switching from alternator power to the batteries? 2) Should I put my measured values simply into Ohm's Law? or is there any particular equasions for it? 

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so youre getting 880 watts at 2 ohms not considering phase angle. amp is suppose to do 1400 at 2ohms. so on battery power alone i would say you are right where you should be.

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9 minutes ago, Krisztián Arnold said:

So I think that summs everyting that I was asking, and curious about, and also what I did wrong. :D
Thank you for constantly helping me, you did a lot, and I apprechiate your efforts!

2 last things that came to my mind. 1) Can an ultracapacitor bank help me with my "drop" in terms of switching from alternator power to the batteries? 2) Should I put my measured values simply into Ohm's Law? or is there any particular equasions for it? 

I have not used ultra caps, but from everything I've seen on them, they would be great.  Much easier way to stabilize voltage.  Still need an adequate charging system though. 

I would suggest reading up on ohms law.  BCAE1.com is a great beginner site for learning about how circuits work. 

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