My first box build, please go easy on me lol

[Fordbronco1995]

Hey everyone, so i have been happy with my two JL Audio 10” subs in a pre fabbed box, the box size is a bit awkward at roughly 26Wx12Hx12D

 I was looking the other day and decided to make a custom box since ive always wanted to make one. After i took some measurements of what would work and the cu ft needed per sub i was ready to get to it. 

I will be making a sealed box, easier on space and i like the tighter bass.

So my new box will be 37”Wx14”Hx7”D it will fit right between my spare tire and rear wheel well. I will gain 6.5”x37” of cargo floor space back going with this new box, doesnt sound like much but i think it will help tremedously with space. With it being wider and shallower and slightly taller the air space in the box will be slightly larger than recommended for my subs but my subs are discontinued and the new replacements require slightly more cu feet than my current subs and if i ever need to replace them ill be covered.

Day 1:

Got a 4’x8’ sheet of .75” mdf board from lowes, started to make some cuts and mock the box up

Also going to install some bracing on the outer walls and center support

Got the front panel marked out, ran out of light so will have to wait until tomorrow to cut it, also got the cutouts for the subs marked.

It will be assembled using 1x1/2” 16 gauge finish nails with the nail gun and loctite pl premium construction adhesive, the adhesive will do most the work, the nails will just aid in holding it in place until the adhesive cures

Got some duratex roll on coating to put on when its all assembled

https://www.acrytech.com/product-category/speaker-cabinet-coatings/

 

Day 2:

 

Ok got the rest of the pieces cut, i got the bottom, back and side walls adhesived and nailed together

The piece in the center is the center support, its just slid in there to help support the top and bottom until it cures, once cured i will adhesive the center support in and then the face with the hole cutouts will go in last. 

I did my best to use the adhesive to help seal the box inside with a thin bead all the way around. Man does that stuff get everywhere lol

 

Also keep in mind this will be in the back with a interior mounted spare. 37” is max width with still leaving just enough room to clear the wheel well and spare tire.

 

Day 3:

 

Adhesived the center support braces on the center support last night, got the center support adhesived in and nailed 

 

Just lack cutting out the holes for the subs and deciding on what im doing for the speaker connections

 

i know its not the prettiest on the inside but it should get the job done

[Ron36]

Nice first box now u just need some real subs for it . Lol 

[Fordbronco1995]

1 minute ago, Ron36 said:

Nice first box now u just need some real subs for it . Lol 

Lol possibly in the future, i know to many on here two 200 watt rms 10” jl audio subs with a 500 watt rms alpine amp is mere childs play but it is plenty for me 

[Ron36]

Some Sundown SD’s would work in there.

[Fordbronco1995]

Thanks for the suggestion, may look into them, just trying to re use what i already have.

 

 

also i had a question on the terminals for the speaker wire, i was thinking of running some 5/16 stainless threaded rod through the box and use eyelets with nuts to secure the connections, is this a better option than using terminal cups? 

[speedygonzo1978]

terminal cups is made of plastic and doesn't rust.  However, threaded rods are built to last, if you go with stainless, you should be fine.  Make sure you run threadlocker so they don't come loose over time.

[aburger]

You could also go with SMD heavy duty terminal cups. They're thicker than the cheap plastic versions and should last you.

https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-speaker-terminals.html

You could also go with binding posts. I used the Dayton posts on my box and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-BPA-38G-Binding-Post/dp/B01LFC7DS8/ref=lp_6401467011_1_16?srs=6401467011&ie=UTF8&qid=1540835344&sr=8-16&th=1