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Melted Fuse Holder Question


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Hey Guys,

Today I was listening to my music when all of the sudden my subwoofer stopped working. Once I got to my home town, I went to Harbor Freight and got a multimeter with an audible continuity setting on it. I tested my fuse from the alt to battery and it was all good. I then proceeded to my fuse holder from the battery to my amp. It had continuity and I was getting ready to shut the hood when I noticed the wiring coming out of the fuse holder going to my amp was somewhat singed/burnt. Upon opening the fuse cover, I found the culprit. The fuse end going to the amp was all burnt and the fuse connector had melted away from the wiring terminal.

 

The reason I'm posting this here is to have you guys help me figure out if I was pushing way too much of a current through the fuse holder, or if the fuse was too large and allowed the current to go through. The cables are Knukoncepts Kolossus Fleks Kable 4Ga with a 120A fuse.

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Vehicle: 2013 Ford F-150 STX SuperCab 5.0L V8 4x4

BIG 3: Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge OFC Power Amp Kit

Headunit: Stock (Leaving factory look)

Speakers: Stock

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 10" D2 wired down to 1 ohm

Enclosure: ~1.5 cubic feet tuned to ~34 Hz (Port Area ~24 inches)

Amplifier(s): Sundown Audio SAE1000.1D

Amp Power Kit: Knukonceptz Complete 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

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My fuse did not "pop" either.

Vehicle: 2013 Ford F-150 STX SuperCab 5.0L V8 4x4

BIG 3: Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge OFC Power Amp Kit

Headunit: Stock (Leaving factory look)

Speakers: Stock

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 10" D2 wired down to 1 ohm

Enclosure: ~1.5 cubic feet tuned to ~34 Hz (Port Area ~24 inches)

Amplifier(s): Sundown Audio SAE1000.1D

Amp Power Kit: Knukonceptz Complete 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

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The connection might have either become loose enough to cause resistance to rise to the point of melting or you got some corrosion on it causing the same result.

Get a fuse holder that uses lugs on the end of the wire and that usually stops that from happening again. People tend to forget that an engine rocks around from forward to reverse, and causes the wire to move around and loosening the wire.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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Remember to solidly crimp or soder your lugs or this will happen again. They sell a cheap good hydraulic crimper on both ebay and amazon. The yellow handle ones.

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The connector wasn't a bad crimp or solder. The in-line fuse holder was the screw through the wire type. I'll be getting a 2Ga wiring kit from CE Auto Electric Supply with the 140A Circuit Breaker.

Vehicle: 2013 Ford F-150 STX SuperCab 5.0L V8 4x4

BIG 3: Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge OFC Power Amp Kit

Headunit: Stock (Leaving factory look)

Speakers: Stock

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 10" D2 wired down to 1 ohm

Enclosure: ~1.5 cubic feet tuned to ~34 Hz (Port Area ~24 inches)

Amplifier(s): Sundown Audio SAE1000.1D

Amp Power Kit: Knukonceptz Complete 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

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Those set screw fuse holders have no place in under hood applications. Need a proper ring + bolt style

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This is the crimper I have used for all of my connections. It is worth the 50 bucks imo 

https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Hydraulic-Crimper-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00ZA2P3XM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537592228&sr=8-5&keywords=hydraulic+crimper

As others said, ring style posts and fuse holders are better suited for under the hood applications, where as set screws might be more convenient for the interior fusing. 

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I think it's worth noting that for crimping, you want the closed ended copper lugs. Use the open ended brass ones for solder

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