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2002 Dodge Dakota, Bed Cut Through, Work in Progress


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And this is where it's at now. I got the frame bolted in and removed the bed again. I added a layer of 3M undercarriage spray around the flange and on the back of the cab. One last layer of defense from water and dirt getting into the cab. I can now build and install the box!

 

FinalSealer3

 

FinalSealer2

 

FinalSealer

 

 

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Got in some goodies for the system. Crescendo Symphony S1-v2 for the subs, Crescendo Symphony S4 for the front stage, Mezzo SQ2 components and UN65's for a little extra mid. Can't wait to get this installed!

 

Crescendo

 

Also had a plexi cover made for the amp rack. The distribution blocks will be visible under the cover, which will be edge lit. 

 

AmpRackPlexi

 

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4 minutes ago, bmwking said:

damn that's a lot of progress!  so, out of curiosity, what's your plan for water intrusion from the top of the flange into the bed of the truck (and presumably right on top of your box)?  are you going to seal to the bed somehow?

I'm still working on that particular issue. I wanted to make it so that I could remove the box and the bed if I need to, but I still need to account for the flex of the bed vs. the cab. I think for the time being I'm going to use adhesive Foam weatherstripping and wrap it around the flange. That way it's still flexible, and should keep the water out. Plus I can remove it easily if I need to replace it. I also thought about making a ring to attach to the flange that would fill up the opening. But I'm currently working on a solution. Right now I put a truck cover on when it rains, but since I'm in socal, it doesn't rain much!

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ah yeah, that's a definite nice thing about your locale!  just make sure you dont do multiple layers of the foam, unless it's going to stay really compressed (which I would think it wont since it's going to be at a wiggle point).  just get thick foam and cram it in there.  say the gap is 1" max all the way around, get 2" foam and really squeeze it in there.  thats just my idea piggybacking off of yours.  there may be a real pro that could chime in

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3 minutes ago, bmwking said:

ah yeah, that's a definite nice thing about your locale!  just make sure you dont do multiple layers of the foam, unless it's going to stay really compressed (which I would think it wont since it's going to be at a wiggle point).  just get thick foam and cram it in there.  say the gap is 1" max all the way around, get 2" foam and really squeeze it in there.  thats just my idea piggybacking off of yours.  there may be a real pro that could chime in

Thickest I could find was 3/4" which is good everywhere on the sides and bottom, but not the top of the opening. Unfortunately, with all the trimming I did, the top of the opening between the flange and top of the bed hole is about an inch and a half. Kinda makes it difficult to find an easy solution.

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4 minutes ago, CrackFactory said:

Good work man. This is awesome.

For the foam try this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Universal-Seal-1-in-x-1-in-x-12-ft-Impregnated-Expanding-Open-Cell-Foam-Sealant-Tape-HD-ASR-25-25-04/205360418

It's made for metal roofs and seals really well. You should be able to stack it to fill the gap on top.

That stuff looks great. I'll have to run to the local HD and check it out. Thanks for the option!

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