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Sub amp stopped working, don't know why


Octavio Palencia

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Hey ya'll, it's been a while since I had a system, I've had my current setup for about 5 months now - having my first issue
Recently my Soundqubed 2200 amp stopped working. I was driving, the bass went away and I poked around to see if I could find out why
I'm getting 8v across the power and ground terminals. Obviously I checked my ground and it's good, get low resistance reading and when I check the voltage from the bare power and ground wires I get just under 12v (Car off)
Voltage across terminals on my speaker amp show what it should at 12v, so I thought maybe something was fucked with the amp. Sent it in to SQ and they tested it and said it's good and had it playing for a few minutes, they found nothing wrong with it
I've swapped grounds, I've swapped fuses, I even got desperate and swapped the 4g wires from the speaker amp and still - 8 volts, not enough to even turn on the amp. If Soundqubed is right and the amp is fine, anyone have any ideas on what I'm missing here?

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OK if you are only getting 8V across the Power & Ground terminals then you have a low voltage battery, most amps will not work under loads of 9V's most are rated between 9-16V operating range so you might have a electrical issue.

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1 hour ago, AlpineNut said:

OK if you are only getting 8V across the Power & Ground terminals then you have a low voltage battery, most amps will not work under loads of 9V's most are rated between 9-16V operating range so you might have a electrical issue.

But he sees 12v at the end of the power cable it seems. And his other amp shows 12v, am I reading correctly? A blown fet or cap, can "drag" voltage down. I doubt the car would start if he had 8v though out. Know what I mean!?

Edit- I would still be looking at that board. Open it up yourself and sniff around. Also,  unload it. Un plug the rcas and speaker leads and check voltage 

 

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I would have opened it up but the amp is still under a warranty so I don't want to void that out. I read 12v if I plug in the power wire and check between the power terminal and the bare ground wire itself, but when I hook up the ground wire to the amp, I only read 8v between the two.

Maybe the negative battery terminal is loose or corroded and it has enough contact to turn the car on and run the smaller speaker amp, but fails out when the sub amp tries to draw juice? That amp needs more power than any other thing in the car I think, so I'll double check that.

And if not, fuck the warranty I guess, I'll open it up

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Fucking the warranty only causes you more issues, one question I wonder have you checked the firewall pass-through? 

Some times installers never put a gromit there and it can cause a small short which can cause a big fire later on if not checked.

Do you have any other batteries other then the one under the hood hooked up as well?  I had a amp that would not turn on at all till I removed the 2nd battery which I found to be bad after the main one took a utter shit!

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I slapped the system together, I put a grommet and it has some wire shielding up to underneath the carpet. I'll double check this too, I'm willing to try to rule out anything. No extra batteries. The protection led blinks one time when I turn the car on then it goes off and nothing else happens, checking the manual to see if it says anything about this

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Well, I figured it out. It was a grounding issue, the wires are grounded good, but the 0awg corroded to shit where the o ring meets the wire, 4awg is the same but it had enough still to give the speaker amp some sort of ground. I'm guessing it didn't work when I switched it over because of the different sizes, idk.

The heat shrink and shielding were on there nice and tight so it didn't feel broken. It was only after I chimped out in anger and started tearing apart every single connector that I found it...

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