Trouble2316$ Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 I’m new so please excuse what some may see as ignorance. I don’t have a lot of expendable income so I make work with what I got. Ok question on my factory head unit I put in a “ line out converter”, first on the rear then settled on the front, to collect input to my mid and highs that I put an amp to. I got the same response as far as over all sound from both front and rear splicing. Could I use splicer rcas from the said “ mid and highs amp ” for a sub amp rca supply? Do I need to just get another line out converter? Can I use the piggy back rcas that o have? Help me help me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 You can use one rca for as many amps as you want. You won't be able control each amp separately with the head unit, which may not matter to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Tapping into front OEM sig may not net you low end response. AKA - Your oem swag, may "cut" the freqs your looking for. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 2 hours ago, Kyblack76 said: Tapping into front OEM sig may not net you low end response. AKA - Your oem swag, may "cut" the freqs your looking for. This... Depending on the vehicle, a lot of them are using built in crossovers to divide the signal to corresponding speakers, especially vehicles with factory amplified stereos. Also a lot of factory radios will lower the bass as the volume goes up. If your wanting to do it right and not spend the money on a processor the next best thing would be using something like the audiocontrol lc7i that will allow you tap off all your factory speakers, then sum all the channels out for a even flat output and then redistribute them to the corresponding amplifiers via rca connections. If your just wanting a sub stage then the lc2i would be all you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 2 hours ago, audiofanaticz said: Depending on the vehicle, a lot of them are using built in crossovers to divide the signal to corresponding speakers, especially vehicles with factory amplified stereos. I apologize for my bad advice. I had no idea this was the case nowadays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 6 hours ago, audiofanaticz said: This... Depending on the vehicle, a lot of them are using built in crossovers to divide the signal to corresponding speakers, especially vehicles with factory amplified stereos. Also a lot of factory radios will lower the bass as the volume goes up. If your wanting to do it right and not spend the money on a processor the next best thing would be using something like the audiocontrol lc7i that will allow you tap off all your factory speakers, then sum all the channels out for a even flat output and then redistribute them to the corresponding amplifiers via rca connections. If your just wanting a sub stage then the lc2i would be all you need. Straight up dude. No bullshit. We found, exactly the later you mentioned a few weeks ago. Before yanking the runners OEM source, for some knowledge, and for some fun,. we dusted off the mic & term lab. Played around with some test tones here and there, and then,... played some of that famous static (PinkNoise Track to check out 20-20k response, OR lack there of lol). Also, tried to do some early time alignment, and directional stuff for later/new gear. Anyway,........ Rolling up volume, like clock work, like it was told/programmed to do, at 34 clicks (max of 40) , I want to say around 50-60HZ, that part of the band, and behind, just dropped and dropped and dropped. Turn it up, to turn it down, was in full affect. Must be a "saftey" feature they put in ya think??, so peeps dont blow the OEM drivers left and right,...i guess???? Only thing i can think of..... And again word..... my dash drivers, do play >---< this, and the doors <--------> that. They (Toyota engineers) in fact, had the drivers cut, or x-over no doubt. Stealing a signal from the dash drivers, would be a real fail boat, for any sort of playable band except something like 5k and up. Also, keep in mind, this is/was the LOWEST tier audio available. Meaning, if this turd, was "smart", and had some sort of factory programmed bullshit "processing" or what have you, that has been done in ALL 5th gen runners, starting in fuckin 2010,......its a good guess, MOST makers, now have some sort of this silliness going on. Id bank on it. At the VERY least, try and tap in, before the stock amp/right AFTER the OEM source, or something. I would still do the AC Lc7i, or a DSP, and SUM the shit outta the signals, with low level sweetness myself, period. 3 hours ago, Bret said: I apologize for my bad advice. I had no idea this was the case nowadays. Your fine mate. Its amazing how things change, and how fucking fast.... I find shit new, every fucking time i crack open a new project. Im scratching my head now, on some shit i have going down with my new go at it. It is, how it is. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble2316$ Posted December 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Thanks folks. I have the lc2i tapped into my front (mid-highs) I just didn’t know if I needed an additional one for my lower frequency’s. I’m going to tie into my rcas and let y’all know what went down. Thanks again. By far the most informative site I’ve come across most others are a bunch of arrogant do$&?es. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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