Check out the SMD Store @ WcCarAudio.com!

Jump to content
 
 

chevzilla

Skar setup in my 2011 Honda Accord suggestions/pointers

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, newbie to the car audio game here and fellow bass enthusiast.

I'm going for bass on a budget, Trying to stay middle of the line between low and high end. Had a Single Skar 10 EVL 4ohm DVC from a previous setup but the amp it was hooked to was pretty crappy, some Absolute Pro 2600w unit. When I bought my new car (2011 Honda Accord EXL with a 2.4l) I decided to finally put my system back in. 

I ditched the Absolute and picked up a Skar RP1500.1 based upon the technician's suggestion at Skar Audio since I am only running a single EVL 4ohm DVC with the impedance at 2ohms. He suggested it would give me the best bang for the buck and estimated that the amp would still deliver around 1000w to the sub, which I believe he was right... This amp made it sound like I went from a shitty walmart sub to a true heavy hitter. Definitely turned some heads when I finished it up. The sub has true 4awg cca wire running to it (not the 4awg but is actually 6awg) and same wiring for the ground. My second hand box was built custom and tuned, or so the guy that made it says.

Since I have an 8th Gen Accord I had to disable the ANC Module and had to keep the factory HU so I could retain the info screen for the clock, temp and fan control. Keeping the HU made it so I also have to use an Audio Control LC2i to tap into the rear speakers. From what I can tell the LC2i it works great and delivers some solid bass. I really hadn't had a chance to tune it since my search results really haven't turned up any useful information. I'm not sure if I'm missing out on better power delivery by properly tuning the LC2i then the amp or, tuning the amp then the LC2i? With my current stock electrical system, I really need to look into some upgrades or further tuning since the headlights dim pretty bad when pushing full bass and have to keep the bass knob just a little bit above MIN to prevent dimming at night. My car comes stock with a 130amp alt but has a pretty small battery and no big three yet. I've read about others who can push a 2000w system on the same stock car without any significant power issues at all. Not sure if my case due to an incorrectly tuned amp/LC2i or something else... Kind of lost right now in regards to tuning the LC2i and Skar at the same time and if proper tuning could make a big difference in dimming.

My immediate thoughts are replacing my battery and getting a budget friendly big three kit. For a battery I was looking at the Odyssey Group 24 AGM battery since there is a shop here in Las Vegas that is running a nice "know a guy" discount for the one I need. As for the big three, I'm not really sure what to look at. I've seen so much conflicting information in regards to this and it's made me unsure of what to do, I'm not sure if DIY would be a better route or not or what would work best. The last thing I can consider right now is a HO alt at the current prices even though I'd love to have one someday.

Any pointers you guys have are greatly appreciated whether it's in regards to tuning the LC2i and amp, cheap power upgrades, wiring etc... I no longer want to be embarrassed when pushing some heavy bass at night and the last thing I want to do is make a decision by piecing together information across multiple forums and end up effing everything up. If you need more information, let me know and I'll do my best to explain. If I'm in the wrong forum, let me know and I'll move it. Thank you much!

Edited by chevzilla

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2010 Accord. I have a XS battery under the hood and big 3.....I have a voltmeter installed. I'm seeing 13.5ish volts at full tilt (2k watt system) and my headlights still dim. I wouldn't sweat that.

Putting an AGM battery under the hood is going to make a huge difference.

  • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1

2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for getting back to me twalker!

Is your Accord a 2.4 with stock alternator? Also, how did you go about wiring up the big three? I've seen so many different ways and each one claims to be the "best".

Also I see you have the XS3400R, how well does it fit in your engine bay and what is the difference with the reverse polarity on the R mean? I'm not to sure how the reverse polarity thing works if I were to use it as my main battery or if there will be any difference at all.

Another thing I was wondering about is the ELD. There was an old post I came across on the forum by @keep_hope_alive that showed how to bypass it on the earlier gen Hondas but was mentioned in the post it should be the same process on newer gens as well. Have you done the bypass on your accord and if so, was it the same process?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is the 3.L V6.....my alt is a 130A also. I'll have to look under my hood and get back to you on the big 3 layout. I installed it 2 years ago. I used OFC 1/0 OFC wire. I do remember that.

I took the little plastic shroud off that goes around the battery as it's just slightly larger than the stock battery. The "reverse polarity" just means the positive and negative terminals are the opposite of standard version. It's the same orientation as our stock batteries.

I never touched the ELD. Using my voltmeter as a gauge....when my voltage drops down to 11.9-12.2.....I just turn the headlights on and i'm back above 13.5. Someone told me once you can just clip some wire and it turns that ELD crap off but his battery light stays on all the time and I personally don't like having a battery light on.

  • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1

2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome, thank you! Glad to hear you've been running the stock alt with a bigger system than mine for two years! Gives me some hope with the dimming issue. I have reached out Singer just incase I ever need something and I'm impressed with the price they quoted. 

What did you do for disabling the ANC? I've just been doing it through the diagnostic menu for the time being by pushing 1 and 6 then power. I've seen a forsure way to do it which is disconnecting the mics but have also read that there is a module you can completely disconnect behind the radio that will in turn use less amperage than just disconnecting the mics, while still retaining HFL. Havent seen anything in particular for the 8th gen on how to do it but others have said it's completely possible. 

Also interested in what you're using for a voltmeter and where you have it mounted. I want to add one but have a clean look without making any permanent modifications to the dash. 

I spoke with a tech at a pretty reputable stereo install shop here in Vegas about an hour ago in regards to ELD on my car and he knew what I was talking about before I even finished the sentence. He said they have a module that is plug and play and bypasses the ELD without any dashboard lights coming on and would keep the alt output at full voltage. He said any other shop would just be trying to screw me over by charging an excessive amount to modify the circuitry. He said the modules are hard to get ahold of but come in every now and then though he had none in stock right now and the cost is only $25. He couldn't remember the name of it of the top of his head. All he could remember was 5v step down? Any idea what he is talking about?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took everything out of my car from the factory stereo wise (in regards to disabling the ANC). I'm not even using the factory door speaker wires. We ran all new wiring in the whole car. I;m sure you can find a solution online though.

I'm running a Dioguardo Engineering UsainVOLT voltmeter. I made a 3D printed "box" for it and it sits in the little cubby hole in front of the shifter. I just put some 2-sided tape on the bottom of it. It's a great voltmeter. I've been running it for almost 2 years also with no issue.

Another thing you're going need to do is sound deaden the trunk area. That thing rattles like a motherf*cker. Also, I took off my rear panel and ran weatherstripping around the upper perimeter where the plastic meets the glass. That would smack against the glass and make an annoying rattle.

  • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1

2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I appreciate your help @twalker182! Got some good ideas to act on now. I really want to put a new head unit in but don't want to lose my info screen. Not sure if there is a work around to this or not, really havent looked into it.

Just looked at the meter, man it's nice but a lil spendy. Any advantages to that one over a cheaper meter?

As for the rattling, I feel you on that one Haha. Removing my stock sub completely and keeping the rear armrest passthrough open helped a lot. Still get some rattling at high frequencies though and think the weather stripping idea would be a nice addition to help before I get into the sound deadening. 

Quick question on your big three, did you upgrade your battery connectors when you did it? I have come across a really good deal for some 2/0 welder cable and might pick it up today and try to hook it up when I get my odyssey battery. But I'm pretty sure there's no way in hell it'll work with the stock connectors and if I remember correctly, a 2/0 welder cable is more like 1/0 or 0 guage audio cable when it comes to size. Correct me if I'm wrong on that.

Thanks again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just liked that voltmeter. It's clear and is "fast".....it's UsainVOLT afterall...lol.

When I did the aftermarket head unit....I still have the digital ac/heat controls but lost the direction (N,S,E,W) and the radio info (which is now on my head unit) on that screen

I bought aftermarket terminal posts. These aren't the exact ones I bought but it's the style I have.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/0-31-in-Wing-Nut-Battery-Terminals-Negative-Gold-Plated/511342656?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1148&adid=22222222227238274743&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=284102035900&wl4=pla-475858479970&wl5=9009614&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112562587&wl11=online&wl12=511342656&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmuHhBRD0ARIsAFWyPwi8UvOjUOjKjMwWA7Kd-GLzo_guhNnXtWgqNa-mdRydbf1ozMo3OjUaAqAEEALw_wcB


2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again man, I'll look into those terminals and see if there's anything similar in town that will work with 2/0 welder cable. 

On another note, are you using the stock halogen bulbs or HID/LED. My buddy was telling me that LED would be better for voltage draw but may flicker just a tiny bit still and HID would require more power initially but not flicker due to power storing in the ballast. Kind of leaning towards LED because I could easily wire those with a relay harness and almost completely eliminate the flicker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stock bulbs....same ones from the factory in 2010. 104k miles and still going strong,


2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...