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So im about double run SHCA 1/0 oversized cca from front to rear. I have 2 sealed fuse blocks,  two regular fuse blocks, and a double in double out 0 mini anl block. Sealed ones are going under hood, regular ones are going inside by battery bank and the mini anl will be between bank and 2 main amps( probably will be replacing that soon with 3 regular fuse blocks so all my amps are fused)  i have 5 500a fuses, 3 300s, and a pair of 250s. Micro anl i have a 180 and a 120 ( cant find any bigger which is why i think i will upgrade soon).

My question is what should my main fuses on my double run 1/0 be? Maybe 16' long runs each between main battery and battery bank. Also should i be hooking my main runs to my alternator or main battery, and if main battery should i have fuses between alt and battery?  All my amps except my db16 is fused internally,  so should i bother even fusing the other amps on thier power wires?

Seems everything i have learned about audio years ago has changed in the last 20 years lol so im gonna ask questions i "already know the answer to" just to make sure lol

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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Do the big 3 electrical upgrade. some fuse from alt to battery, some don't. Run from main battery to rear should be fused as close battery as possible. Ground runs ideally no longer than 18" but next to impossible when doing the big 3 and running ground runs from front to back battery. Again some do, some don't.

Fuse rear run close to rear battery and after to amps. Map out your electricaland fuse where needed. Preventing fire and feeding the amps is the 2 main goals.

 

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I have never fused alt to batteries myself and have never run grounds front to back, battery to frame and frame to rear battery bank is how ive alwats done it. I already have big 4 and a single run of generic 0 going to replace with a double run of my new shca 1/0 oversized,  i will be putting fuse blocks where u said they should be ( where they already are also). Im more wondering about what size fuses to be using on my main runs,  how much current can this wire take per foot so i can run max safe sized fuses? For amps i will run what the amps are rated for because i have that info, cant seem to find info on wire rating per foot tho, hoping someone already knows the answer tho

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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I used two runs from underhood battery to rear battery of SHCA 1/0 OFC wire in my build, fused at 300 A after leaving and before entering my batteries. Since this is CCA wire then I would recommend 250 A fuses for the main runs, then fusing to whatever is specified for your amplifiers. For example my RF p600x4 recommends a 100 A fuse while my DC 2k recommends a 200 A fuse.

I believe hooking up directly to your alternator provides you with the best power delivery between your power hungry amps and your pixie firing alternator, whereas hooking into your underhood battery first could delay that but so long as you fuse it correctly you should be fine. 

 

I use this for looking at what size fuses and such, cool post actually: 

 

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Thanks for the info, like i said i got amp ratings for amps, just needed wire dual run fuse ratings. My sub amp recommends 250, my jbl is 75, my sony takes 60, crossover has a 10 and ill be powering a relay to turn on everything else in ( maybe another 10 max). That puts me at 405amp if everything is maxxed out. Id assume that nothing will ever be at 100% draw all at once though. Shouldn't i atleast have 400a fuses?  Or is that more pull than my wire can carry? Like i said i have 500a fuses here already but dont want to use them and create a fire hazzard.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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A 500 amp fuse,... jesus. Your wire will probably let go before that does.  4 alta, and 26 batteries here, and the largest fuse we run is 300 amp. Lots of dual runs though. 

Throw the 500 amp fuses in the garbage. You won't need those for anything. At least I hope you don't. 

I won't comment on most anything else in your thread, as, I prefer what I prefer, when it comes to fuses. 

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I have been using 250s with a single run of 0, and not trying to be a smart ass but id like ur opinion on the rest of my post since i am asking for help. I will be replacing the mini anl fuse block and replacing with 3 single regular anl fuse blocks appropriately fused for each amp. What do you recommend for between main battery and battery bank in the back. There will be two runs of shca 1/0 oversized cca ( roughly 16') double ground to frame in both ends. Alternator is a gm 140a with overdrive pulley. There will be fuses directly after main battery and directly before battery bank in the back.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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11 hours ago, Joshdashef said:

I used two runs from underhood battery to rear battery of SHCA 1/0 OFC wire in my build, fused at 300 A after leaving and before entering my batteries. Since this is CCA wire then I would recommend 250 A fuses for the main runs, then fusing to whatever is specified for your amplifiers. For example my RF p600x4 recommends a 100 A fuse while my DC 2k recommends a 200 A fuse.

I believe hooking up directly to your alternator provides you with the best power delivery between your power hungry amps and your pixie firing alternator, whereas hooking into your underhood battery first could delay that but so long as you fuse it correctly you should be fine. 

 

I use this for looking at what size fuses and such, cool post actually: 

 

And i just now figured out how to open the post u quoted, sorry that had the answers i was looking for so i feel like an idiot to keep asking. Kinda hard to navigate the site with shit service and on a phone. Thank for the link to.info, itll be usefull for sure.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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3 hours ago, ehall8702 said:

Thanks for the info, like i said i got amp ratings for amps, just needed wire dual run fuse ratings. My sub amp recommends 250, my jbl is 75, my sony takes 60, crossover has a 10 and ill be powering a relay to turn on everything else in ( maybe another 10 max). That puts me at 405amp if everything is maxxed out. Id assume that nothing will ever be at 100% draw all at once though. Shouldn't i atleast have 400a fuses?  Or is that more pull than my wire can carry? Like i said i have 500a fuses here already but dont want to use them and create a fire hazzard.

for the runs from front to back you essentially want to fuse for max amperage pull (providing your wire can handle it, which it can).  I would say do 2 200a or 225a fuses, one for each run, within 18" or the rear battery bank.  then into your distro/fuse block before being distributed to amps etc.  when fusing the wire between rear bank and amps, use only fuses rated for max amperage pull per amp (shouldnt be hard to find the correct fuse size per component).  

 

basically you want to isolate each battery bank with fuses, and then the amps.  personally, i went straight off my alt, 16' or so directly to battery bank one (no fuse), directly to bank 2 (again, no fuse), then to distro/fuse block and to the amps.  now, i may have been risking it, but it's been running fine for over a year now.  the way i see it, as long as the components that are actually pulling current are separated by a fuse before the next component (battery, alt) then it should be fine.  batteries (if they're healthy) dont pull current on their own, they store it.  they should present too much, if any, draw to the power source.

 

just my 2¢

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