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Components or Midrange Sub


Bakerman

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I am working on a single cab silverado.  The amp powering my normal speakers has 55W rms per channel, for channels.  My door speakers are the SoundQubed component set, that handles 75wRMS.  I am having a debacle on what to use on the B Pillar.  Should I go ahead and order another component or coax set for the rear, and call it a day?  Or should I go with a midrange 6.5" speaker that SoundQubed offers?  The mid is a single VC 4ohm, and I can pair it with one of their super tweeters to get it down to 2ohms, and get a little more power out of the amp.  Never used these types of midrange drivers, and figured Id see about an opinion from the masses.

Here are the speakers I am looking at.

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Speakers on the b-pillar are awfully close your your melon and pull the sound pretty hard to one side of the vehicle. It's one of the reasons that I'd not put a tweeter in this location. Though not the best location musically for a speaker, they're still other reasons why you might want to locate a speaker in this area. (Lack of space, or just want some fill from the rear.) The selected midrange speaker covers most of the human vocal range, so they're a good match if you're just trying to get a little more oomph from the mid to hear speech, etc. But your truck's speaker is likely a 4 x 6. So you'll need to go through an adapter to fit them in.

I could, and am likely wrong, but I don't think you can't get to 2 ohms by driving a component set (mid + tweeter). To get to 2 ohm you'll need two matching speakers. (Two subs, two mids, two full-range, etc...) The reason I don't think it'll work is because you're driving different bandwidths to a 4 ohm speaker. So the amp doesn't see that is an overlapping load. Also, it might be a good idea to confirm that your amp can handle 2 ohms, and that the distortion  and clipping wont go up when you wire for 2 ohms.

The need for component vs. coaxial is going to be up to your taste and how you want to listen. If it were my truck, I'd start with the component midrange and adjust fading so that it's not overpowering the positioning of the music center stage.

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9 minutes ago, dolarbilz said:

Ditch rear fill for one.those pa style will blow your ears out in b pillar...if you are looking for more sound and louder.maybe think about what you are missing in front of you..what do you have now? 

Right now it is stock 6.75" speaker running off of a cheap headunit.  I don't like to install until I get everything in.  But i have a set of the SoundQubed 6.5" component sets for the front.  The 6.5" driver will be in the door, and the tweet on the a-pillar.  It will be powered by a 4channel amp.  I don't have any room for dash speakers like my s10 used to, or that would be perfect.  And I really don't want to blow my head off with another component set on the rear.  Thats why I was thinking of the mid driver for the bpillar to help even out a little, while still giving me more sound.

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9 minutes ago, 9Nails said:

Speakers on the b-pillar are awfully close your your melon and pull the sound pretty hard to one side of the vehicle. It's one of the reasons that I'd not put a tweeter in this location. Though not the best location musically for a speaker, they're still other reasons why you might want to locate a speaker in this area. (Lack of space, or just want some fill from the rear.) The selected midrange speaker covers most of the human vocal range, so they're a good match if you're just trying to get a little more oomph from the mid to hear speech, etc. But your truck's speaker is likely a 4 x 6. So you'll need to go through an adapter to fit them in.

I could, and am likely wrong, but I don't think you can't get to 2 ohms by driving a component set (mid + tweeter). To get to 2 ohm you'll need two matching speakers. (Two subs, two mids, two full-range, etc...) The reason I don't think it'll work is because you're driving different bandwidths to a 4 ohm speaker. So the amp doesn't see that is an overlapping load. Also, it might be a good idea to confirm that your amp can handle 2 ohms, and that the distortion  and clipping wont go up when you wire for 2 ohms.

The need for component vs. coaxial is going to be up to your taste and how you want to listen. If it were my truck, I'd start with the component midrange and adjust fading so that it's not overpowering the positioning of the music center stage.

You are %100 correct.  The stock mount is a 4x6, so I will be fabbing in an adapter to hold whatever speaker I get.  A little fiberglass work never hurt anyone.  And i do feel like you are right on the whole impedence thing as well, but im not sure.  I thought the overlapping would take place as long as I didn't have a component set to break down the signals.  So if I did the tweeter and speaker in parallel, it would just lower the impedence.  Ill have to test that with a meter in the future.

But at the end of the day, I don't want to blow my head off with an abundance of sound in the rear.  I just don't want to fell offbalance with all the sound ahead of me.  Thats why I was leaning heavily towards the mid drivers for behind the head since they do well with voices.  It may help level it out, without blowing my brains out the other side.

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What year model Silverado ??

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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