DiBo Posted January 27, 2019 Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Yanked off the OEM obviously for a Singer 320 on my 2004 Lincoln Navigator and it only lasted me about 3-4 months. I think I fried the regulator. Instrument cluster goes on and off and even the transmission was shifting hard. If I put anything over a 200 amp in factory location it required a self exciting mod so I ordered a new regulator from mechman ( I use mechman normally but they don't make an alt for my truck) and they sent it right out for $50. They day before my alt shit I jumped my Maxima. It was completely dead and took a good deal of revving. Now I either have to get a new regulator bc (assuming this is the issue) and cross my fingers or I'm thinking about getting a 200 amp replacement and running this with a secondary 370 as a dual setup. The problem with this is I don't want to be limited to a single 370 to my bank. I would like to have at least 500 amps+ to my batteries and if I put a 200 on with the factory plug I don't think I can parallel the 370 with a 1 wire setup. Anybody have any advice or suggestions. I'm yanking off this 320 tomorrow and I can... A) send to Mike Singer for credit towards a replacement 200 amp factory location unit or my secondary GM 370 ( dual bracket utilizes a GM alternator) Grab a new self exciting regulator and cross fingers C) ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted January 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 Alternator working as it should. Problem is elsewhere. Might've fried the battery or shorted a wire or the truck computer. Whatever it is I'll figure it out. Basshead problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Fried the battery. All systems go. Damn... You bass and you learn I guess haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron36 Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 How’s your PCM 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 First step is check all fuses Second is disconnect all batteries for 20 to 30 minutes. Reset everything Third is to get a hold of a 2 way scan tool. Start running some self diagnostic checks on your various control modules and go from there. I'd be surprised if you fried anything TBH. Electronics in cars are fairly robust and will generally go into safe mode or turn off if fed power outside of their operational capacity. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Everything on the truck is performing flawlessly so far. As soon as the battery started acting up I pulled over. my voltage was going to 18 volts I figured it was alternator problem after speaking with Mechman , singer and Nation starter and alternator. I did a self exciting modification on here which isn't the best route to take I've learned but it's working just fine. They tell you not to jumpstart these newer vehicles (2002+) for a reason I guess. I've been driving all day with zero issues. Time to get my box and equipment in the truck and see how she sounds with the four 12's. More alternator power and amplifiers on their way. Gonna get loud a step at a time. Gonna learn this shit to the fullest. Agitated because when I went to put on my alternator I realized that it wasn't just my router that was stolen but my mechanic set also. This s*** was supposed to be done by the 11th for CES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 2 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said: First step is check all fuses Second is disconnect all batteries for 20 to 30 minutes. Reset everything Third is to get a hold of a 2 way scan tool. Start running some self diagnostic checks on your various control modules and go from there. I'd be surprised if you fried anything TBH. Electronics in cars are fairly robust and will generally go into safe mode or turn off if fed power outside of their operational capacity. Yeah I have a buddy that owns the shop so I'm taking it in the morning to double check everything. Bass has beat my ass in the past couple weeks lol. It's all good... I'm learning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meave Stede Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 The only time the word “incorrectly” isn’t spelled “incorrectly” is when it is spelled “incorrectly”. Seth Hardin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 1 hour ago, Meave Stede said: The only time the word “incorrectly” isn’t spelled “incorrectly” is when it is spelled “incorrectly”. dafuq man, you have your first edible today or somethin? goin all confucius on the forum today... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.