amps Connect two amps to my subs. Newbie alert!

[AsteriX]

Hi,

You guys probably see a lot of stupid questions in here and this might be one, but I gotta ask. 
So I got a rockfordfosgate 12" dual punch P2 sub/s and two amps, there is only one input on the enclosure.
I got this setup from my sister and as of now the amps seem hooked up(I have barely touched it from one car to the other, only ran the wires as they were), but I feel like it lacks the expected punch it should have. 
Currently the two amps I have is one rockfordfosgate amp and another unknown 1500 watt amp(Dont remember the names so will edit them in later when I check.).

They are wired as shown in the pic, I feel like this is not the correct way as it seems illogical and thats why I need help. How SHOULD it be wired so I can fix it?

[Joshdashef]

What are the model numbers of the two amps your using. It should be on the exterior. Like Prime 1200.1 or something. Gonna need that info later too.

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Well there are multiple ways to do what your trying to do. First off take the subs out of the enclosure (remove the speaker wire from each terminal) and use a multimeter to determine the resistance of each voice coil. Most likely they have two sets of positive and negative push posts, use that as your pos and neg leads to find the resistance in ohms on the multimeter. 

Alternatively you can look at the back of the sub and it will tell you the model of each sub and in turn the resistances of each voice coil.

Hopefully they are the same

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if you have two dual 2 ohm subs then you can simply wire each down to 1 ohms into one amp and do the same for the other. If you don’t know how to do this then I suggest looking at some videos and researching before just doing it. 

a simplified video that can show you some info you need, and has a tool to help in the description. 

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As far as using two subs and two amps you need to gain match them or one sub will be playing harder than the other causing wackiness.

Video is kinda long but I remember this being a good explanation of the concept.

You May still run into problems, in which case just ask a question. 

Welcome to the forum man! And good luck with your setup

[k58.cross]

By your diagram, you only have output power coming from one of your amps. But don't just run the output of both amps to the box, you need to do a few things:

Modify the box to add a separate set of +/- terminals for each woofer.

Run the output of 1 amp to 1 woofer and the other amp to the other woofer.

Gain match the two amps so the woofers both move in unison. Watch the video the poster above posted. It doesn't have to be exact, but the more equal the power both subs get the better. 

 

Alternatively, you can sell both amps and buy one single amp that can handle both subs. Then you can wire the subs in parallel and power both off the same amp. 

[MrSkippyJ]

1 hour ago, k58.cross said:

By your diagram, you only have output power coming from one of your amps. But don't just run the output of both amps to the box, you need to do a few things:

Modify the box to add a separate set of +/- terminals for each woofer.

Run the output of 1 amp to 1 woofer and the other amp to the other woofer.

Gain match the two amps so the woofers both move in unison. Watch the video the poster above posted. It doesn't have to be exact, but the more equal the power both subs get the better. 

 

Alternatively, you can sell both amps and buy one single amp that can handle both subs. Then you can wire the subs in parallel and power both off the same amp. 

That last part is really the only real option. 2 amps if you can strap them but one is really the best and most ideal solution to this.

[k58.cross]

Yeah agreed. Trying to match two different model amps is definitely not ideal.

[AsteriX]

Yeah guys, I'll stick with using one. SO I kinda got shocked when I actually bothered reading the labels on the amps. The rockford amp is ONLY 500 watts, while the other AMP is 2000 watt and not even connected.

So I'm going to rewire it later so it only uses the 2000 watt one, then use the 500 watt one for mids and highs or something. Also the connection wasn't even bridged on the rockford one, so my 12" 1600 watt subs have both been running on the divided power of the ALLMIGHTY 250 watts... And I am 100% positive that the 2k amp isn't wired to be a slave either, at 75% gain and bass-knob at high the woofers only flex like 5 mm up and down at 20 hz, when they should flex wayyy more.

This was setup by a car radio shop by the way, if I am not mistaken they must have hired the town halfwit to do the job. Also the signal wire from the amp to the speaker are 2 different cables wired together, so gotta buy a new cable that can handle the 2000 watt, because these look like they could be maybe 20 gauge or something small. 

The next time I hook something up I'm gonna do my research and see to it being done correctly. Trusting others wont do.

Thanks for the help guys!

I'll add a photo later of how it is now VS how its gonna look later. In the process of buying a "new"(Still old) Merc so wont re-do it untill I have the new car.

[ehall8702]

That RF "500" probably.will destroy that no namer 2000watt amp tho. Do ur research on the 2k, look for dyno videos on utube and maybe its worth a shit. That rf if its a mono u cant do anything with it if u dont use it for a sub amp. Those p2 only take like 400 each anyways,  even a generic 2k should be close to 8-900 range. Dont know what p2s u have so idk vc config tho, alotta cheap amps dont handle 1ohm ( if p2 is 4 ohm dvc) and dont put out mich at 4 ohms. Give us amp model ( or atleast a brand name or a pic) and model of subs amd u will get a ton of help with whatll work best for what u got.

 

And afyer looking closer to ur diagram it kind of looks like the no namer was setup to run the mids and highs in the car. If its a 2 or 4 channel thats what i would do ( unless you have stock speakers).  Its amazing what even 45 watts to each door speaker will change in a car. Your stock headunit maybe puts out 8-10 watts rms a channel and a name brand one is about 18-22 watts rms, which isnt so bad if the unit has a built in hpf, but without internal crossover its basically just distortion at different levels!

 

And if that rf is a monoblock there isnt a "bridged connection" but may have two "+" and two "-" to make it easier to connect multiple woofers or vigger wire to each woofer. If your box only has one input your final impedance is however its wired inside so no matter how u hook it to a monoblock amp itll get the same power.