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ncc74656

wiring voltage drop

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for determining how much wire or how many runs are needed - i just want to make sure im not overlooking something here.

so long as im using name brand ring terminals i shouldn't need to worry about how many amps can pass through the ring terminals, right?

the longer runs obviously need thicker wire so if im running 10 feet of power between battery banks i may need multiple runs, but if im grounding those batteries to the frame over 2 feet then a single run would be enough? seeing as shorter runs can hold far more current than longer runs, right?

with batteries front and rear i would want to factor the largest amperage draw and ensure that can occur bi-directional, right? every link in the system should be able to hold the maximum expected current in other words.

once i hit another batter (going from front to rear lets say) my distance is reset, right? so if im going 10 feet from one battery to another and then from that second battery my amp is a further 5 feet away. the amperage calculation for the amp wire is 5 feet, not 15 feet. right?

when wiring to a busbar for capacitors would i include the length of the busbar in my wire ampacity calculations or do i not include the busbar? how do i do math for that?

 

ill still do voltage drop tests once its all installed, just want to start with a solid framework 

 

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3 hours ago, ncc74656 said:

for determining how much wire or how many runs are needed - i just want to make sure im not overlooking something here. 

so long as im using name brand ring terminals i shouldn't need to worry about how many amps can pass through the ring terminals, right? Id shoot for thick copper rings branded or not.

the longer runs obviously need thicker wire so if im running 10 feet of power between battery banks i may need multiple runs, but if im grounding those batteries to the frame over 2 feet then a single run would be enough? seeing as shorter runs can hold far more current than longer runs, right? 10ft of 12v+ isn't relevant to your grounding location, regardless of short grounds at the frame or even direct grounds to the front you will still need to make sure your 12v+ line can carry enough current to the rear.

with batteries front and rear i would want to factor the largest amperage draw and ensure that can occur bi-directional, right? every link in the system should be able to hold the maximum expected current in other words. 

once i hit another batter (going from front to rear lets say) my distance is reset, right? so if im going 10 feet from one battery to another and then from that second battery my amp is a further 5 feet away. the amperage calculation for the amp wire is 5 feet, not 15 feet. right? Yes technically the "amp" wire is 5 feet, still you will need sufficient current flow coming from the alt to rear to charge your bank efficiently. 

when wiring to a busbar for capacitors would i include the length of the busbar in my wire ampacity calculations or do i not include the busbar? how do i do math for that? You need to consider the type of metal used and look up its resistance/conductivity, for the most part you can ignore that with thick copper/alum bars.

 

ill still do voltage drop tests once its all installed, just want to start with a solid framework 

 

 

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Voltage drop tests with a DMM separates the men from the boys . . . and fact from fiction.

Thick, tin-plated eyelets offer low resistance terminations to cables and surfaces.  Quality tinned OFC.  Short return paths - none of this I ran my grounds back to the battery nonsense that prevails in this hobby.  3/8" & 1/2" Grade 5 plated hardware into tapped holes in thick surfaces with internal / external zinc plated star washers.

Then, pull out your DMM and prepared to be amazed.

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trying to set myself up for success right here.  the basic grounds are mesa ring terminals (the split type) that i have on drilled/tapped holes via 10mm bolts to the frame rails.  the thing im trying to address is how the ring terminals are almost always attached to posts or terminals that only allow for maybe 1/3 of the surface area contact. 

i was looking at using copper bar as a busbar to connect my caps together but i think maybe aluminum will be easier to source.

i have a battery tester from harbor freight, it only goes to 500A wich is a bit less than my calculated rms current draw, ive been using that to load wires and test drops. so far so good. however i have zero audio installed, up till now its been dealing with factory replacement setup.

i will have 3 runs of 2/0 going front to rear to handle the amperage and then have to deal with linking all that out to 4 or 5 amps, 4-6 caps, and radio/dsp and so on. 

i just want to have a good game plan and setup so i dont get in there after the install and realize i need to run a bunch more wire or change out busbars or what not.

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So zinc coated best for under the car in under the hood?

Regular copper ones not good enough? Or just use those in side the car?  Is this for corrosion or does zinc covered copper conduct better?

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