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2 minutes ago, realflow100 said:

theres the smallest chance in the world that the sub was wired wrong from the factory. Extremely unlikely. but still a chance it could happen.

Thats the weirdest thing ive ever heard!

Its also possible the amp could have a weird defect that causes DC or broken signal to pass to the subwoofer for some reason.

The amp isn't new, it's an old amp that I've been using for 10+ years. The amp isn't the problem. I know it's fully capable of doing that 2000w +. It's definitely not the problem, I would doubt that it's my wiring but human error is always a possibility. And I doubt that the DC sub is wired wrong, but as you stated it is still a possibility.

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Just now, /b/ro said:

The amp isn't new, it's an old amp that I've been using for 10+ years. The amp isn't the problem. I know it's fully capable of doing that 2000w +. It's definitely not the problem, I would doubt that it's my wiring but human error is always a possibility. And I doubt that the DC sub is wired wrong, but as you stated it is still a possibility.

I do remember playing one song that was clipped, but as soon as I heard it I turned it off to a diff song. I don't play clipped ass bs. This is supposed to be an SPL bill but I do want SQ. Lol

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Weird situation, only one sub gets hurt when three others are all tied together.

I'm pretty sure Kirchhoff's laws apply when wiring subs together much the same as light bulbs so they should each be getting the same power as each other unless the blown sub had its pos/neg terminals put on wrong and that somehow effected everything?

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I don't see any recone kits for the level 1s only level 2s+ and they are about 86 on one website, so almost the cost of a new level 1 sub

Maybe taking the blown sub apart could help solve what went wrong?

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Just now, Joshdashef said:

Weird situation, only one sub gets hurt when three others are all tied together.

I'm pretty sure Kirchhoff's laws apply when wiring subs together much the same as light bulbs so they should each be getting the same power as each other unless the blown sub had its pos/neg terminals put on wrong and that somehow effected everything?

Maybe but if the polarity with switch to wouldn't the sub play out of phase? That's what leads me to believe that sub was a dud from the factory. The rest of the subs have a perfectly Crystal Clean copper coil. I would be perfectly fine eating my dinner off of it. However the other one looks like a burnt marshmallow.

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Just now, Joshdashef said:

I don't see any recone kits for the level 1s only level 2s+ and they are about 86 on one website, so almost the cost of a new level 1 sub

Maybe taking the blown sub apart could help solve what went wrong?

It's not going to tell me much more than I already know. It's hard to get on camera but I can see the coil clear as day. Orwell at least about 1/4 of it, the rest of it is down inside the motor😂

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Can you see where the pos/neg are wired to without taking it apart? If so compare it to another one maybe

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2 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

Can you see where the pos/neg are wired to without taking it apart? If so compare it to another one maybe

Ill do that. One sec.

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Ok, they look identical... I can see where the leads touch the terminals, perfect. Where the leads touch the cone, perfect. Where the small wire of the coil leads up inside the dust cap, perfect. Everything is perfect. Idk what happened. This is seriously doesn't make sense. The sub (looks) fine,  the amp is fine, the wiring is the same as the wiring wizard. It doesn't make sense. How can the other three Subs be as good looking as when they came out of the factory, but the identical sub with the same wattage input, in the same box, be defected? Something's not adding up.

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I think the most likely is it was just a lemon sub. 

Your box in your truck still or inside? Some pics of that might help, ones showing the interior / mounting depth. It's possible the sub could have been suffocated and couldn't breath / dissipate the heat.

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