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80-250hz


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6 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

I don’t think a subwoofer is your best bet for that frequency range regardless of its size. Not that you listen to advice.

Well, I have looked at midbass woofers that have accordion style surrounds thinking that this would be better suited, but those I have asked concerning this sound really didn't have any understanding. Snowdrifter suggested a shallow mount sub, and it makes sense. PRV looked like they had some really good speakers for this range, but they are all 8 ohm. If I could find a similar driver that was 4 ohm, I would be much happier.

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The K.I.S.S. rule applies more than ever in complex audio systems, and there are reasons car manufacturers use oval speakers in a system to cover as broad a range as possible. 

I once thought about multiple drivers in a setup as your wanting to try, but quickly ran into issues with crossover points where you could have holes and peaks and driver issues themselves. A single driver is the xanadu people have sought to achieve for decades without success.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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I understand what you are trying to do, but there is one thing that has been COMPLETELY left out of this equation ... vehicle in question for install. 

Unless you build a complete custom dash, every vehicle has it’s limits. Hence making “ less is more” work to perfection. 

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http://www.reyaudio.com/large-e.html

These are 2 ways used in studios to make the music we listen to, if you think a 5 way, 7 way or something more complex is better, then be my guest and learn the hard way.

 

EDIT: I would run a set of 5 1/4" comps with some midbass drivers and leave it at that.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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22 minutes ago, Skullz said:

http://www.reyaudio.com/large-e.html

These are 2 ways used in studios to make the music we listen to, if you think a 5 way, 7 way or something more complex is better, then be my guest and learn the hard way.

 

EDIT: I would run a set of 5 1/4" comps with some midbass drivers and leave it at that.

Shit this would be easiest. And probably most effective    id run a midbass. 6.5 or 8,  4 " midrange and then whatever tweeter thats in your budget

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Not to mention if you are using different brand drivers they are not going to sound the same so the tone is going to be off between brands... maybe or may not be noticeable.. but I know in my H.T set up even the difference series of the same brand I can tell a slight difference 

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Dear ministryman,

6 dedicated drivers on axis in a large room with a distant enclosure is one thing but having all that in your car is a whole different story, especially if your goal is somewhat for SQ.

As far as i can remember, most modern studios prefer most of the sound to come from a pair of high end 2 way on axis drivers just to achieve a flat point source sound with good image and minimal to no beaming/cancellation, something us car audio fanatics deal with quite often. 

Something to think about here, alot of (not all) mediocre and even high end drivers dont just sound good out of the box, the passive xovers do more than some think such as impedance stability near FS, phase alignment between the drivers and actually having a roll-off that matches the sensitivity and phase, so when you drop in 6 drivers crossed at different frequencies it will likely be a PITFA to set up especially if in active and you have no plan on how to align everything.

  hope everyone is having a great day!

 

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Some of the comments on this thread have amazed me...smh. I got a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has a real nice factory system. It has 2 tweets in the dash, 2 mids in the front doors, and 2 midwoofers in the rear doors. If I added a subwoofer to that system, no one would have anything to say, but if I want to build a system like that myself, its stupid, unnecessary, or can't be done. Amazing. I have an RTA, Oscope, Clamp meter, volt meter, phase meter, SMD DD1, and CC1. I hope that I can install and tune an active system with these tools. My head unit has a time alignment feature, 10 band equalizer, 3 5v pre-outs for front, rear, and sub. I'm dividing the front channel with some y adaptors for the 4 channel amp, running the 8's off the rear channel, and the sub off the sub channel. The head unit has built in crossovers for each channel which will allow me to bandpass the 8's to achieve the desired crossover range, and the CC1 will allow me to set my LPF correctly. The CC1 also allows me to set the subsonic and LPF on my SKv2 200.4 amplifier to bandpass the 6.5's between 250-500hz. I really don't understand what all the fuss is about here. But hey, I really appreciate whoever among you it is that is really concerned about whatever suffering you are trying to save me. Means a lot to me, especially considering this is how I live my life. No, my dilemma here was in choosing a driver that I could amplify loud enough to not drown out my other speakers, yet feel that bass in my nose...lol. I guess if I get too much power I can always turn it down...lol Fat chance of that tho. I got this problem of not being able to turn it down. I'm still deciding between a 10 inch sub, or 8 inch. I really don't want to have to buy another amp. I already got around 3k in this sytem. I have a 1200 watt amp that I can use, but matching that to a set of 8's has been difficult. So far my best choice for 8's is PSI. They can build them exactly the way I need them. !0 inch speakers really suit my power needs much better. This dilemma is what pushed me to reach out. I don't have any experience with 8's or 10's, so I shouted out asking what the best driver for this range was. I really wanted to go with Skar, for the above mentioned reason of having the same brand and series components. I could replace my HCCA 152 with 2 VXF series, or 1 DNR at some future point. If I get Skar 8's I will have to get another amp, and to be honest, I'm starting to get that look from my wife..lol I'm betting someone here knows that look. At any rate, I thank all of you for your time, concern, and input.

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1 hour ago, ToNasty said:

No thats basically a 2 way front stage with rear fill.  Thats not 10 million speakers each covering a few hundred hz like youre wanting. 

Uhh, I think I know what I'm wanting,  and what I've described is what I want. I don't have 10 million speakers or even 10 speakers. I got 2 pair of tweets, 1 pair for front left, and 1 pair for front right. I got 2 pair of 6.5's, 1 pair for left, and one pair for right. I don't know how you got any other idea than that,  but you are mistaken. Glad we got that cleared up. Now it makes sense. 

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