Fiat Fullback (Mitsubishi L200)

[MoltoMorto]

[maybe this post need to be moved in another thread]

Hi all from Italy (preface: maybe my english is worse than I think...).

I have a lot of idea and already purchased some materials. Just to clarify, the materials was purchased for another car, quite different from a pickup. I'll try to list all the components I have already in my garage and the components I need to buy.

Maybe someone want to know my question, but before of all you need to know that for the restrictive car law in Italy, I cant do some of your "normal" works (eg: dual alternator!): I have 3 battery banks, one single alternator (maybe is an "intelligent" Euro6), a lot of space but some confusion on the battery splitters.

Just to know: for the "intelligent" Euro6 alternator, the normal battery splitter are not compatible, nor the VSR. The only system I think is possible to use is the Battery to Battery charger.

Talking about the Batteries: the main starting battery is the OEM from the manufacturer, the second bank is a small Ground Zero GZBP 12.1000 25Ah and the third bank are two FAM SuperNova 120Ah.

The GZBP is used for the low current components: light internal and external, parking sensors, 3xHelix P-DSP, ...

The FAM batteries are used for the audio system: GZPA1.4000, Helix P200 & P400, ... (and a Viair Compressor for the Horns!)

The audio system will be installed on the front doors, where each will have 2xGZCW 10in, 2xGZCW 6.5in and 2xGZCT0500. The sub on the back... is another problem because the driver is a 15in GZPw 15X and there is not space... but this in not the place to talk about it.

The problem: are the B2B chargers isolated from a 400A drain from the battery bank? I am talking about the Votronic VCC 1212-30: the plan is to use two of this components taking the supply from the starter battery to the GZ bank and the FAM bank. Or did I have to use a relais 12V 500A due to interrupt the connection between the B2B when the engine is off? [SOLVED] As you can see on the drawing i'll use two relais rated 200A in parallel (i was thinking about using Arduino to switch the relais, send the remote power-up to the electronics, monitor the voltages and the temperatures...).

What I need now is to give a size to the various cables and some fuses.

Updated the drawing again, adding "some" speakers.

The drawing is still a work in progress: probably I need to change the editor, because EAGLE is a sw for the development of circuit board. The sw PENCIL will then be used.

 

fullback3.pdf

[MoltoMorto]

Thinking about my previous setup...

I am very concerned about working on the car door panels, because I need to "destroy" it, creating holes in it, placing resing on it. I dont like this way to work.

In these days I've looked around on different solution due to reproduce the car door panels, and have found some information on the cosplay materials. There are thermoforming plastic materials that can be molded around existing surface...

[MoltoMorto]

Goodmorning,

I've selected some thermoforming sheet materials for the front panels. The Kydex is often used as holder for fireguns, the Boltaron is used in automotive.

• Kydex (12.99$ 8in x 12in) 275-300°F
• Concealex (...cant find any info...)
• Boltaron (5.20$ 8in x 12in) 330÷400°F
• Holstex (6.25$ 8in x 12in) 350°F

As you can see, the Kydex need the lower temperature range but a simple heat gun with variable temperature will cover all the temperature ranges. I might a temperature sensor is a must have for this application.

It's important to know the "flash point" of the material: never heat the material above this point!

From the MSDS of each material:

• Kydex flash point 735°F
• Boltaron 
• Holstex 

My idea is to remove the original panel from the door, put is on a surface and apply a sheet of material to reproduce the forms of the OEM panel.

[SnowDrifter]

Moved to gen audio at OP's request