RobertK Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 So, I have a tiny system compared to most of you all. 2007 Silverado classic crew cab. Stock alt, (130 amp) Batt in front only. CCA 4 gauge and 8 gauge power wires running to under rear seat. Big 3 or 4 upgrade done with CCA 1/0 wire. Pioneer dbl din AVH-1330NEX head unit Real 8 awg wire going to Alpine 45X4 rms power brick to rear doors / Kenwood 3 way 6.5's. (For fill, running maybe 30 watts) 4 gauge going to BB 900x1 amp powering 2 Sony 12" 300 watt rms shallow mount subs parallel to 2ohms. 8 gauge (4 gauge ground maybe?) going to Pioneer 150x2 rms amp powering Polk Audio 6.5 separates, 1" tweeters, and passive crossovers. (Rated at 100 watts rms, 300 max) In front doors. Bass amp stays cool to warm, would guess I'm running it around 600 to 700 watts maybe. Mid amp, now Pioneer 150x2, (old amp was a Fosgate prime 125X2) Gets very hot, even turning gain down to what I guess is maybe 100x2. The Fosgate amp also got very hot, which is why I switched to the Pioneer. I'll check the ohms tomorrow. (Can you check ohms on component speakers on a passive crossover?) Can the amps heat up that much because of small 8 gauge wire? Can it be from 8 gauge positive, 4 gauge ground? (I think it's 4 gauge ground.) Anything else to check? I could run 1/0 welding wire to the back seat, then split to dual 4 gauge I guess. How can I prove that will solve the problem? And no, I'm not going any higher amps, I just want this to run cool / warm, and reliable. It's loud enough for me, and my budget! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 Class A/B amps run hot. As long as it doesn't shut down it is normal, you can make a box to hold it with an opening on both ends and put a fan on one side to pull air through to cool it. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertK Posted May 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 10 minutes ago, Skullz said: Class A/B amps run hot. As long as it doesn't shut down it is normal, you can make a box to hold it with an opening on both ends and put a fan on one side to pull air through to cool it. Hot enough that you can't touch it more than a second or two??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT.Smoke Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 15 hours ago, RobertK said: Hot enough that you can't touch it more than a second or two??? Yes A/B amps get hot as hell mine does too Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 2 minutes ago, LT.Smoke said: Yes A/B amps get hot as hell mine does too I disagree. Ive had/have many class a/b amps. They get warm but not hot. Class a amps get hot ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron36 Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 Mine have all ran hot but as long as they don’t shut off just let them ride. 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT.Smoke Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 8 minutes ago, ToNasty said: I disagree. Ive had/have many class a/b amps. They get warm but not hot. Class a amps get hot Everyone has different experiences I guess..All my class A/B's have gotten hot after decent play time...Not boiling hot but hotter than lukewarm Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 Depends on the ohm load your are running, 4 ohm will get warm to hot, and start going lower and you will certainly get to really hot. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 Best solution to your problem ... get you a matching Pioneer Amplifier if they can be run mono channel. Run one mono left, and one mono right. Double Power supply setups let’s you gain lower, play stronger, run cooler, and most important ... maximum left and right separation. Simple .... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertK Posted June 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 So, as a follow up. Nothing I did would keep that pioneer even remotely cool. I even turned down the gain to about 60 watts per channel, and it still got too hot after an hour of cranking it. I finally bought a new class D amp on amazon, that was dyno'd at over 350 watts x 2 at 4 ohms, figuring I can hopefully run it at 150 watts x 2 and keep it cool. So far, by using the formula for voltage output (ohms law, lol) I'm putting out 200 watts x 2 at 4.2 ohms, and my front speakers are still begging for more! I'm leaving it as is right now, till I get a DD1 meter, but I'm at 32 out of 40 on my head unit, all is very clear and loud, and no heat out of the bass or mid/highs amp. So we will see. Still need new power wire ran, and a little more bass, but very happy at the moment, especially when the mid / high amp was only $114 new. The bass amp is also class D, 800 watts x1 currently, and only paid $50 used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.