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New components needed!


ehall8702

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Have a budget of around $150, need louder mids and highs. I currently have infinity reference 6.5" components powered by a ppi ice1000.4 (80x4@4, 125x4@2, and 250x2@4). Currently have 2 channels to components and 2 channels to reference 4" in rear locations. Going to hook rears to deck to free up 2 more channels. I don't want to fry my infinitys by bridging the amp to power them though. At some point in the future I want to add kick panels and a second set of components up front. I was looking at some massive fc6 but haven't looked too hard. I don't need full on sq, but the infinitys can't keep up with my 4 hds2.108s on 3k that aren't even broke in yet and amp gain as low as it gets, going to be worse when I dial amp in and they are broken in.

I had pro audio ( active 3 way on 600 watts) and it was stupid loud but could never eq it down in the mid range to make it sound good with most music . I know it's a hard issue to solve, can't have both loud and sound good usually. I'm not sure if I want to go active as of yet, rather stick to passive untill I find a good dsp or get a new headunit that has a network mode.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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14 minutes ago, ToNasty said:

150 isnt much. But id probably go with a set of wric stevens mb6 mids which are 89 a peice and.

Where can I find specs and buying options? I googled it and came up with some forum links but nothing for buying any or any real specs 

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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13 minutes ago, ehall8702 said:

Where can I find specs and buying options? I googled it and came up with some forum links but nothing for buying any or any real specs 

Only way to buy right now is Stevens audio on facebook. They are high Sensativety.  And great speakers

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been really happy with the skar 6.5 comps. Spx65c I think is the model. I think they should be in that budget, or maybe just over it. Full disclosure, I'm not an sq guy, don't have much hands on experience with "real" sq mids, but I'd buy another set in a heartbeat. Have em active on a ppi 900.4 and had to eq them down some to level out with a 140db (in the ballpark) sub stage. Maybe see if you can find someone local that has em?

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those infinty refrence are really good compnents. if you are looking to just be louder add another set of them up front and just delete the rear stage completely. 

 

You can also go with a better headunit with tim alignment and a really good EQ. 

 

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I took rear stage off of amp and bridged the amp to the references, sound damn good, alot louder. Probably going to get a second set up front soon, they have a really nice sound to them and are very clear. Don't wanna go with custom door panels, so will be saving for q-form kick panels and a second set of references. Haven't yet, but will be hooking the rear 4" to my headunit so there is some rear fill. Have to pull dash apart anyways to hook reverse camera up anyways will do it all at once.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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7 hours ago, ehall8702 said:

I took rear stage off of amp and bridged the amp to the references, sound damn good, alot louder. Probably going to get a second set up front soon, they have a really nice sound to them and are very clear. Don't wanna go with custom door panels, so will be saving for q-form kick panels and a second set of references. Haven't yet, but will be hooking the rear 4" to my headunit so there is some rear fill. Have to pull dash apart anyways to hook reverse camera up anyways will do it all at once.

The rears on deck is going to ruin your sound 

 

Your talking like 25 watts RMS each, if that.

 

Who knows when internal amp will distort or clip, but I can tell you this, the deck amp is going to distort way way sooner in the volume knob than the amp will on the components.

In fact if you set the amp proper it should never clip or distort. So your going to have clean clear components and raspy sounding 4" coax's.

 

Why don't you just match the front set of comps with identical set for rear as already mentioned? Get some adapters or whatever is needed to stand off the rears in factory location.

 

The majority of JBL and Infinity's comps and coax's are 2 or 3 ohm.

That should help extract some headroom off that amp.

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