ehall8702 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Exactly what title says. What options are out there to keep the speaker mounting screws from backing out? Used course and fine thread drywall screws used bigger medium thread screws and I literally can watch the screws back themselves out while I have volume up high . Thought about t nuts and loctite but wanna see what other options I have. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epic Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 I've gotten to the point where I pretty much always use bolts and threaded inserts. I dont like T nuts or wood screws myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 My experience with both T-nuts and hurricane nuts has been poor. It seems like they cross-thread really easily and when that happens you are going to have a bad day. I won't touch either of them any more. I've gone to using #10 pan head sheet metal screws for most stuff and the SMD Blackjack screws for really big subs. The key to getting screws to bite well is to make sure they aren't just going into MDF. Plywood holds screws REALLY well while MDF never seems to hold screws worth a darn in the long run. I avoid MDF altogether, but if you want to use it you can make just the baffle out of plywood. If you don't want to do that or if the box is already built you can just glue some blocks of 3/4" plywood to the back side of the baffle where the screws go through, then just make sure you are using long enough screws to reach all the way into the plywood blocks. If you wanted to be fancy you could make a plywood ring in two pieces and glue that inside. One thing I really try to avoid is any drywall screws or deck screws. They are plenty strong enough for the job, but the back side of the head where it is tapered really isn't the best thing to be putting through the hole in a basket, you want something with a flat contact area. This is why I prefer pan head screws or cap head screws, even better if you can find them in square drive. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 When you use use bolts or screws in wood, you want to use some super thin CA glue in the hole and as mush as the wood will take. Give it a minute or two to dry and use a drill or impact to run the screw or bolt in and out a few times with some gloves on as it will heat really quick and really hot, now what you have done is to make the wood as strong as metal with threads that act like they are nuts. EDIT: You do want to run the screw or bolt in the hole first to cut some threads. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaCiFiKbAllA Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 I used 2” SPAX screws...the gold ones that require a star bit. Never had an issue with screws backing out....but that may be due to the slight angle my sub sits at. 1 x Fi Audio SP4 V2 12" D2 Fully Loaded 1 x Wolfram W-4500.1 2 x XS Power D5100's 250A Singer Alternator 2.67 Cubes @ 29hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I am using big flat headed metal screws, have used them many times in the past with no issues but a problem now. Going to make plywood rings for the back and use some ca glue in the holes also. Thanks for the good feedback and advice guys! 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twalker182 Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 19 hours ago, PaCiFiKbAllA said: I used 2” SPAX screws...the gold ones that require a star bit. Never had an issue with screws backing out....but that may be due to the slight angle my sub sits at. I used SPAX as well and 2 years later....have never had an issue. 2010 Accord Sedan XS D3400R Clarion HU Sundown mids and highs Incriminator amps Incriminator Lethal Injection 12" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Speakers or subwoofers? If subwoofers: brace your baffle more and use spax #8 multi material construction screws ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 41 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said: Speakers or subwoofers? If subwoofers: brace your baffle more and use spax #8 multi material construction screws Subs, it's a pain in the ass to post a pic or I'd show ya what screws I'm using, but they are about the same as backer screws ( double thread design) but with a flat edge that touches the basket of the speaker. Never had a problem with em before, but my baffle is only 1" usually it's 1.5" so I'd figure that's my issue. For door speakers I use Phillips panhead self tappers. I'm going to try plywood rings behind and some glue inside the holes. If that doesn't work I will be refacing the box with plywood I guess. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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