Mack187Murder Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 So I have a 370 amp mechmam alt. After less than a year of use it failed and sent it to mechman and the stator/rotors were said to have failed due to a bad ground..................... So I swapped my old stock alternator back in and have never had a problem with that alt. Ran it for years with a huge system and never had a problem. I have the big 3 done. Connections are tight. Like retard tight. Alt to engine block done. And engine block to chassis. Pure copper wiring. It makes no sense to me that I have a bad ground I think their alt just shit the bed and they didnt want to admit. Since I'm in Canada I paid 200 bucks to have it shipped back and forth on top of the the 800 dollar alt I dont want to fuck it again. In the event i am wrong........ .........Is there a way I can test my grounds using a multimeter? Any help would be appreciated thanks . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will77530 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Pics of setup would help and mechman posted a video a while back about how those alts need to be grounded a specific way so may not be bullshit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I personally don't see how a bad ground would cause an alt to go. Hopefully @MECHMAN could drop some knowledge. Anyways... To check your ground, put a load on your alt, with the ground on your load tester connected to the frame somewhere. You could turn up your system too and it would accomplish the same. From there you want to check the voltage differential between chassis(or whatever ground you're using) and alternator case ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I have a mechmam billet 370 and ran it for 3 years with no ground on it. I just had the 3 mounting locations and it never gave out.. only thing that made it eat shit was high rpm. High output alternators don’t like high rpm my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack187Murder Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 17 hours ago, will77530 said: Pics of setup would help and mechman posted a video a while back about how those alts need to be grounded a specific way so may not be bullshit Sorry Will no pictures as the webpage says my pictures are too big. Apparently this forum was built in 1970 (even cannabis forums let you post full 4k pictures for free) I asked them about that and this is the answer I got "There are only two ways to wire an alternator, the right way or the wrong way. Because the wrong way would be wiring it backwards and something would burn up. It’s an upgraded positive cable from the alternator to the battery and a new ground wire from the alternator case(mounting bolt) through the RVC sensor to the battery. Well crimped, copper terminals with 1/0 copper wire. That’s about it. My 250 has been on my van for 4 years with 17 batteries supplying 16k+ clamped power" 14 hours ago, SnowDrifter said: I personally don't see how a bad ground would cause an alt to go. Hopefully @MECHMAN could drop some knowledge. Anyways... To check your ground, put a load on your alt, with the ground on your load tester connected to the frame somewhere. You could turn up your system too and it would accomplish the same. From there you want to check the voltage differential between chassis(or whatever ground you're using) and alternator case Thanks I will try this 10 hours ago, Miguels said: I have a mechmam billet 370 and ran it for 3 years with no ground on it. I just had the 3 mounting locations and it never gave out.. only thing that made it eat shit was high rpm. High output alternators don’t like high rpm My system on paper has 5500 watts worth of AMPS (But I dont use the full 1000 watts on my 4 channel I use 500) So 4500watt mono divided by 12v = 375 amp 500watt 4 channel divided by 12v = 41.6 amp Total: 421 amp draw from my sound system. (Hope my math and formulas are correct) Not including air conditioner and head unit and shit. Is my alternator too small for my system? The mechman idles at 240amp My question is why has my 140amp stock alternator been running its bag off for 5 years with no issues? I'm definately underpowering my system with that so it would be running at 100% capacity all the time. I know this because after an hour and a half my batteries use their juice up and my bass cuts out cuz stock alt cant keep up. So why would a 370amp mechman shit the bed in less than a year. When a stock just takes abuse all day and doesnt skip a beat? . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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