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6th order toes wet... Any good links?


DiBo

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Looking for good reads on 6th orders. I know the basics but I've never built one. Any good starter pointers? I'll be building a couple series tuned 6th order. One with an 8 in massive hippo, one with an x-12, and one with a U series 15. Need to learn so experience Trumps all methods imo. TIA

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Make them where ports can be played with i.e. Port sizes changed, tunings etc to get it dialed in....over the past 3yrs I've learned there's no one size fits all when it comes to 6ths...if I would've left mine the way it was with out changing  port sizes etc  based off the design I got I'd be about 3db quieter...luckly the guy who designed mine made it where I could do port swaps...it was loud and could hair trick when I finished BUT  biggest gains were in playing with BOTH ports...3db gain just playing with ports...not sub swapping...not adding power 

2000 Suburban 6 runs of 2/0

12 timpano audio mids,6 timpana audio tweets and 1 timpano compression horn per door 

8 banks of blue Maxwells + 260ah of Yin Long LTOs 

2 370 Amp Autotech Alts 

mids amps 2  Crescendo Skyway 3ks 

Tweet amp Crossfire 2000.4

sub amp: 4 Crossfire XT 8ks

Subs: 8 18 in Crossfires in a 4th order


Best Scores at events…

161.6@38hz DBdrag  sealed on the dash… 162.54 outlaw…161.14 Meca headrest 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, kalilac619 said:

Make them where ports can be played with i.e. Port sizes changed, tunings etc to get it dialed in....over the past 3yrs I've learned there's no one size fits all when it comes to 6ths...if I would've left mine the way it was with out changing  port sizes etc  based off the design I got I'd be about 3db quieter...luckly the guy who designed mine made it where I could do port swaps...it was loud and could hair trick when I finished BUT  biggest gains were in playing with BOTH ports...3db gain just playing with ports...not sub swapping...not adding power 

So tuning an octave apart doesn't always work then... I've been told that as long as rear and front tuning are 1 octave apart it should be pretty close to dialed in. 

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Keep in mind there is a world of difference between parallel-tuned and series-tuned 6th order bandpass boxes.  

I totally agree with what kalilac619 said about making your ports adjustable.  I would also suggest that if you are looking to experiment and play around with things I'd start with a parallel-tuned design, they are more forgiving and MUCH easier to get the tuning right.  I bet over half of the series-tuned 6th orders out there aren't tuned anywhere near where their owners think they are.  

 

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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1 hour ago, Triticum Agricolam said:

Keep in mind there is a world of difference between parallel-tuned and series-tuned 6th order bandpass boxes.  

I totally agree with what kalilac619 said about making your ports adjustable.  I would also suggest that if you are looking to experiment and play around with things I'd start with a parallel-tuned design, they are more forgiving and MUCH easier to get the tuning right.  I bet over half of the series-tuned 6th orders out there aren't tuned anywhere near where their owners think they are.  

 

I was hoping you'd chime in. This is an area where I'm not going to argue with you 1iota lol. I'd really prefer to do some series tuned enclosures though. I have slot ports down. I'm confident I can get tuning on both sides pretty spot on. I know there's more to it but a couple people told me they're not as hard as people make them out to be. Just got term pro software also. Gonna give it a shot a see what happens. 

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They're not to difficult once you get your foot in the water before diving in....box programs,or on paper specs can be way off once in car....mine on paper/BB Pro and the term pro software has my rear port 7 hz  higher then actual in car tuning...supposed to be tuned to 25hz actual tuning using the SMD IM/SG is 18hz .... I can do a 153+ from 16hz -62hz sealed on the dash with my best scores being a156.5 at 26hz and a 156.1 at 53hz....door open is where it really shines 155+ 18hz -65hz best being a 159.8 at 29hz on the dash door open 

2000 Suburban 6 runs of 2/0

12 timpano audio mids,6 timpana audio tweets and 1 timpano compression horn per door 

8 banks of blue Maxwells + 260ah of Yin Long LTOs 

2 370 Amp Autotech Alts 

mids amps 2  Crescendo Skyway 3ks 

Tweet amp Crossfire 2000.4

sub amp: 4 Crossfire XT 8ks

Subs: 8 18 in Crossfires in a 4th order


Best Scores at events…

161.6@38hz DBdrag  sealed on the dash… 162.54 outlaw…161.14 Meca headrest 

 

 

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9 hours ago, DiBo said:

I was hoping you'd chime in. This is an area where I'm not going to argue with you 1iota lol. I'd really prefer to do some series tuned enclosures though. I have slot ports down. I'm confident I can get tuning on both sides pretty spot on. I know there's more to it but a couple people told me they're not as hard as people make them out to be. Just got term pro software also. Gonna give it a shot a see what happens. 

If a series-tuned box is what you want to do and you aren't afraid of the challenge then have at it man!  The most important thing to keep in mind about series-tuned boxes is the port tunings interact with each other, and what they do is not intuitive.  For example, if you increase the length of the outer chamber port, it will lower the tuning of the outer chamber, as you would expect, but it will change the tuning of the inner chamber as well.  The same thing happens when you change the length of the inner chamber port.  The usual port tuning calculators you would use for other box types are useless for series-tuned boxes.  

Since you have Term Pro that should help you out quite a bit.  If you want you can give me your box specs when the time comes and I can plug them into HornResp and tell ya what it says.    

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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13 hours ago, kalilac619 said:

They're not to difficult once you get your foot in the water before diving in....box programs,or on paper specs can be way off once in car....mine on paper/BB Pro and the term pro software has my rear port 7 hz  higher then actual in car tuning...supposed to be tuned to 25hz actual tuning using the SMD IM/SG is 18hz .... I can do a 153+ from 16hz -62hz sealed on the dash with my best scores being a156.5 at 26hz and a 156.1 at 53hz....door open is where it really shines 155+ 18hz -65hz best being a 159.8 at 29hz on the dash door open 

Those are impressive low frequency scores. Good shit man!! 

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6 hours ago, Triticum Agricolam said:

If a series-tuned box is what you want to do and you aren't afraid of the challenge then have at it man!  The most important thing to keep in mind about series-tuned boxes is the port tunings interact with each other, and what they do is not intuitive.  For example, if you increase the length of the outer chamber port, it will lower the tuning of the outer chamber, as you would expect, but it will change the tuning of the inner chamber as well.  The same thing happens when you change the length of the inner chamber port.  The usual port tuning calculators you would use for other box types are useless for series-tuned boxes.  

Since you have Term Pro that should help you out quite a bit.  If you want you can give me your box specs when the time comes and I can plug them into HornResp and tell ya what it says.    

Awesome man thank you! I'll keep you posted. It'll be a couple weeks. 

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