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Help With Big 3


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Hey guys before I get flamed, I have gone through the entire big 3 thread, done countless searches on this forum and as well as g37 forums (that pertain to my car) and I can’t seem to get the answer I need yet, figuring there’s more people that deal with high output here I figured I have better chances of getting an answer here so please bare with me.

 

So currently I’m doing the big 3 upgrade on my Infiniti G37 sedan and have ran into a bit of an issue. On my car the negative battery cable uses a “Battery Current Sensor”, it’s a little box with a hole through it in which the factory ground cable runs through (I have attached a picture). This tells the alternator when the battery needs charging or is fully charged. Once I added another ground (RF 1/0 OFC) without removing the factory ground, I noticed my car won’t go past 13.3V when it’s usually above 14V before doing the big 3 *battery to chassis* step. This is because the added ground wire bypasses the battery current sensor making the alternator think my battery is fully charged, when it’s not.

 

now I have a couple of questions,

 

1)Running the new wire through the battery current sensor is not an option, it only allows about a 6 gauge wire through it and no more. Is there anyway to do the “big 3” without adding an extra ground to the battery to frame, I’m assuming this is the most important step in the big 3 so is there any other grounds I can add to the car that will give me the same benefit, or does this mean that my cars electrical engineering won’t allow me to do a proper big 3? I have asked on the g37 forums to see if unplugging the pigtail harness on the battery current sensor will cause ant check engine lights or overcharging/undercharging issues, but yet to have an answer. I won’t be driving the car until later this week, so finding that out by doing so physically isn’t an option yet AND I do not want to damage my alternator by making it work overtime in case the current sensor affects over charging.

2) is it more important to ground the alternator to the frame, or the engine block to frame? From my understanding the g37 front frame is all aluminum so I’m not sure which route to take when grounding the “Engine to Chassis”

 

3)from my understanding, on the positive battery to alternator wire, the fuse is supposed to be closer to the alternator correct?

 

i appreciate any help in advanced, I really want to get the proper grounding and electrical in my car to run my audio at full potential. 

5054A99E-68A5-4B0F-AE0D-96B9C57EE32E.jpeg

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I cannot say for sure this will work but it has a very good hint as to what you can possibly do.  There is no other video's which show anything about that sensor.

 

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31 minutes ago, SPL DB said:

I cannot say for sure this will work but it has a very good hint as to what you can possibly do.  There is no other video's which show anything about that sensor.

 

This is almost identical to what my car has and what my voltage is going through. I had actually thought of putting the new ground wire through the current sensor because I figured it was there for a reason but unfortunately my 1/0 gauge is wayyy to thick for it to go through the sensor hole, the sensor hole allows maximum a 4 gauge with thin insulation which defeats the purpose of changing it because the stock ground is already a 4 gauge. In this case, what would be your recommendation to beef up the grounding considering I cannot ground the battery anymore than it is? I want to prevent my interior and exterior lights from dimming when my sound is playing I also have air suspension so the compressors kicking on while my bass is hitting also creates light dimming and voltage drop.  I appreciate your research on this topic greatly as well.

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35 minutes ago, Kennyy said:

Unfortunately the new ground wire is way too thick to go through the current sensor 

:(

If the ground is connected to the main battery it has to go through the ground. This might be your issue. See what happens when you unplug  the sensor

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5 minutes ago, ToNasty said:

If the ground is connected to the main battery it has to go through the ground. This might be your issue. See what happens when you unplug  the sensor

Yeah I figured since my issues only came after bypassing it, that the ground has to go through it. I’m just afraid of a check engine light coming on from unplugging the current sensor because after some researching I noticed there is a check engine code related to the malfunction or removal of the current sensor, so I’m assuming unplugging it will cause some sort of cel. Are there any couplers I can use to split the 0 gauge and run maybe a thinner coupler through the current sensor, kind of like a 0-4 gauge reducer that couples the wire back together once the thinner portion has gone through? Or is there any other grounds besides the alternator that I should beef up since I cannot do the battery?

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2 minutes ago, ToNasty said:

What's the biggest size cable you can get through the ground sensor if you remove the oem ground?

The biggest ground I can run through is a true 4 gauge, the car already comes with stock 4 gauge with very thin insulation, so using a regular 4 gauge like sky high or Rockford wouldn’t fit due to the insulation size. If I don’t run an extra negative to chassis, what would you suggest as far as upgrading the grounds? Does adding more engine grounds or fender grounds help in this case or am I stuck running a “Big 2” instead of “Big 3”?

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