SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Will do. I may try to just go buy more 1/0 guage power/ ground and some ends, maybe someone in town will have some, not alot of car audio places in my neck of the woods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soccerballzs Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 A 100 watt alternator is weak. The electrical of your car at max is probably 100 amps. Upgrade to one bigger then 200 amps. 100 watt is a joke to even install. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 2 minutes ago, Soccerballzs said: A 100 watt alternator is weak. The electrical of your car at max is probably 100 amps. Upgrade to one bigger then 200 amps. 100 watt is a joke to even install. I own a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport that was stock a 90bamp alternator, after days of research I came to find out the next jump for an alternator is a 270 amp for I believe 600+ dollars and I love the game but, my four kids gotta eat. I had to sell my Harley just to upgrade most of what I have. BLUF: I know my alternator is small but, its what I have unless u you know where I can get one for cheaper with good ratings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Call ces they did a 14volt internal bypass (pcm controlled) 220 amp peak @ 2500 rpm/120 amp at idle for 285.00 Custom electrical service in Ohio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 I'm of the opinion that rather than loading up a couple hundred dollars in the parts cannon to shotgun everything, it would be a more appropriate use of time and money to determine where you fault lies such that it can be repaired appropriately. You can then optimize from there to get the best value per dollar. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 14 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said: I'm of the opinion that rather than loading up a couple hundred dollars in the parts cannon to shotgun everything, it would be a more appropriate use of time and money to determine where you fault lies such that it can be repaired appropriately. You can then optimize from there to get the best value per dollar. I figured I would try to take everyones advice thus far. I am going to use what 1/0 gauge I have left to go battery to battery, then 1/0 to two 4 gauge to amps. Just gonna have to wait on the big 3 upgrade but i will just buy a whole kit over next few days. Double check all my grounds and retune amps using V=sq rt of P×R and of course implied is taking the cap out of the equation. Then, if I am still getting some voltage issues then I will look into an alternator. But, I am going to do it in this order as time is precious in my line of work and the size of my family. 1. Tune amps again. And put a DMM on my grounds. 2. Take out cap 3. Upgrade wiring (buys time for 1/0 big 3) 4. Look into alternator 5. Then finish sound deadening doors 6. Then Upgrade door speakers and mid/high amp (Going with Skar speakers/amps front to rear.) 7. Then build custom enclosure/battery box/amp rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 I know how it is, Gremlins after you thought you finished now it's time to play detective. Sucks but as said above start at begining. I'm in the middle of a fresh build in different vehicle right after I completed one and then blew a head gasket, now none of my speakers or subs fit other vehicle. Started with alt, them big 3. There's nothing in new vehicle other than alt, big 3 and xs under hood. My next step is pulling doors deadening them and feeding 12g wire to them all. Then run power to rear, install rear battery, Then 2 component sets in doors Then amps Unfortunately going from 2 12s to a single 8 in factory location. Going with focal poly glass. Anyway start at begining so you aren't spinning in circles or possibly ruining amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 16 hours ago, SFCMcCarty said: I have a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport; I upgraded to a 100 amp alternator, did the big 3 upgrade(4 gauge), added a second battery 2x OEM replacement (fused 4 gauge battery to battery), 1/0 gauge from second battery fused to 50 farad cap distributed to 2x 4 gauge one to Skar RP1500.1 at 1 ohm to 2x 12" SDR Subs and a Kicker 4 channel (Max output 600 watts) to JBL Front components and rear 2-way JBLs. Sounds awesome but I know I can get more from my subs but, my cap shows an immediate voltage drop when the subs hit (Turned up about 1/2 way.) Result: Kicker amp goes to protect and then eventually turns back on. Is this a ground problem (Multimeter appears to to read voltage but, dont know if anything is grounded properly(new to the multimeter game))? Or could this be an Alternator problem? Agree with SnowDrifter. Find and fix your problem before wasting money. First thing ... you have no need for that capacitor. Get rid of it and completely reconfigure and retune. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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