SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 I have a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport; I upgraded to a 100 amp alternator, did the big 3 upgrade(4 gauge), added a second battery 2x OEM replacement (fused 4 gauge battery to battery), 1/0 gauge from second battery fused to 50 farad cap distributed to 2x 4 gauge one to Skar RP1500.1 at 1 ohm to 2x 12" SDR Subs and a Kicker 4 channel (Max output 600 watts) to JBL Front components and rear 2-way JBLs. Sounds awesome but I know I can get more from my subs but, my cap shows an immediate voltage drop when the subs hit (Turned up about 1/2 way.) Result: Kicker amp goes to protect and then eventually turns back on. Is this a ground problem (Multimeter appears to to read voltage but, dont know if anything is grounded properly(new to the multimeter game))? Or could this be an Alternator problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 What's your voltage at the alternator if you check via case + charging stud, then charging stud + chassis ground, when the issue occurs? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Again new to the multimeter game I tested the positive upper post and grounded off the battery and got right at 13.8 Volts, rear battery seems to slowly charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 13.8v at the battery while your amp is going into low voltage protect? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Negative, 13.8 after the amp dies and I turned the bass control know down. Dont want to lose it as my daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 13.8 static voltage unfortunately doesn't tell much. Need to put a load on it ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Your cap puts a tremendous load on charging system. You say it's happening right after bass drops. So the amp slams and uses stores of energy from cap and as soon as cap depletes it starts charging drops voltage and your system protects. Remove cap and test it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Yeah 100 amp alt, big 3 in 4awg, and your feeding amp from second battery with 1/0. 1) your big 3 and battery scheme is backwards, you could of done the short run off second battery with 4awg. And been fine, if big 3 was in 1/0. The run from second battery in 1/0 with everything else wired in 4 is pointless. 2) 50 farad cap. That's an insane amount of load, I initially read 5 farad and even that is big, but 50 farad is going to ruin your batteries, I can almost guarantee it's pulling them shits almost dead on occasion a few times a day. Thankfully it's probably a whack brand and not true 50, which is saving your alt and charging system. Redo your big 3 in 1/0 , redo your batts in 1/0. Send power to rear in 1/0 after distribution you could use a short run of 4 (16" or less) to feed amp. But might as well feed it 1/0 with guage adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFCMcCarty Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 So, here is what I have on hand, a 1/0 amp kit (obviously some of the power wire gone from how I set it up) qhich was part of dual 4 guage amp kit. Some wiring left over from a previous 4 gauge kit. So if I upgrade from battery to battery to 1/0, drop the cap, distribute 1/0 to two 4 guage to the amps I should have enough parts/wiring to do that. Will not upgrading the big 3 serve as an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 Your big 3 is going to be the biggest issue. You'll never see any benefit to any of the 1/0 in this chain if it's choked at the very beginning (big 3 is the beging of downstream) with 4 guage Take that 1/0 kit and big 3 it. You'll need at best 14 feet of it. Git pics? With pics I can better figure a way to beat use what's on hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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