Prepping doors for second skin

[ToNasty]

27 minutes ago, White Lightning said:

What kind of build do you have in mind for this vehicle ??

I was going to ask this as well

[AaronT]

Basic, 

Deadener all through doors n quarters and hatch.

Factory speakers replaced with rockford T2 6.5 components,  1/0 ofc big 3 and run to rear, 2 agms group 78 under hood and rear. Sundown sd3 8 in factory sub enclosure, RF T400-4 (bridged 2 channel) on rear comps, RF T 600-2 on front comps, RF T 1000-1 bdCP on sub at 4 ohms. Decent mid level pioneer Double Din, audio control matrix plus 6 channel line driver to give me 5 volts on signal to amps and when done being built CES 220 amp internal 14.8v bypass alternator.

This is replacing my family car grocery getter that I'm done dumping money into

So far this year in the car is replacing I replaced the flexplate flywheel did upper and lower intake manifold gaskets put all four new shocks and struts on it wheel bearings. 

But unfortunately my wife drive that car as well and I didn't get around to changing the intake manifold gaskets soon enough before the fucker got so hot it blew a head gasket I'm not going to fix it and I'm not doing a head gasket in it it's got a hundred sixty thousand miles on it and it's just going to be driven till the wheels fall off I can't really keep antifreeze in the car as it loses about the entire cooling system in a week and come wintertime I'm not dumping $50 of antifreeze in the car every week

[White Lightning]

Sounds like a cool setup Sir.

[AaronT]

Thx, I literally started stripping doors today, and ended up pulling all 4 seats out and all body panels. 

 

Cool thing, it seems these cars were made for this shit.

In the rear there a plastic thing that holds jack, it's the entire width and length of the rear cargo area under carpet. It has a 8.5" wide 4" deep 35" long valley molded into the plastic sub floor that will hold about 6 or 7 kinetic hc700 agms (or similar size stinger Or any other manufacturer 12 -15 amp hour batteries. I'm gonna stick 3 in there instead of using a larger 55 amp hour battery. 

This is one of the few times I'm being pleasantly surprised as i rip an interior out.

Even the rear doors have sail panels with rubber plugs behind to feed tweeter wire through and are deep enough so I don't have to build them out far with body filler to build pods, nice little MDF angled pod and very minimal body filler will be easy.

I'll upload links to pics here, I'll use this as the build log I guess.

I'm just still undecided on where the passive x-overs are going.im thinking of adding a angles panel to amp rack or recessing them in b and c pillars respectively fir front and rear doors

I really want them nearer the speakers as it will save wire.  I do not want them in doors as they look too cool to hide and have that Rockford flair I like to display, as well as the attenuation switches and axis switch.

 

[AaronT]

Anyone got a solution to this issue here?

These are my door boots.... Ffs a molex plug.

I'm thinking of 

1) there's some dead space on the sides of plug, drill it out and bitch metal to fit the dang 12g wires.

2) unpinning the entire damn harness and reconnect using which disconnect barrel type and keeping the now unused plugs as gromets for boots with centers drilled for wire.

3) finding a set of aftermarket boots and installing them 

The front will be a bitch to do the reconect or drill side of plug idea.

 

 

Edited September 29, 2019 by AaronT

[AaronT]

Solved. ¾" holes

 

Edited September 29, 2019 by AaronT

[Second Skin]

On 9/3/2019 at 1:30 PM, AaronT said:

Basic, 

Deadener all through doors n quarters and hatch.

Factory speakers replaced with rockford T2 6.5 components,  1/0 ofc big 3 and run to rear, 2 agms group 78 under hood and rear. Sundown sd3 8 in factory sub enclosure, RF T400-4 (bridged 2 channel) on rear comps, RF T 600-2 on front comps, RF T 1000-1 bdCP on sub at 4 ohms. Decent mid level pioneer Double Din, audio control matrix plus 6 channel line driver to give me 5 volts on signal to amps and when done being built CES 220 amp internal 14.8v bypass alternator.

This is replacing my family car grocery getter that I'm done dumping money into

Nice little upgrade for the grocery getter. Thanks for using Second Skin.