Decided to go 2 way active!

[AaronT]

But back on topic.

I'm no expert, but I'd imagine going active, whether focused on perfect staging or imaging or not, the on board x-over on deck will still clean signal of unwanted frequencies to each specific driver and have them play well within thier tolerances for frequency response?

I should say instead of " looking for it to sound good as possible" I really mean "loud and clear at the expense of perfect staging"

It boils down to this, if I can save another days labor and materials that is required to build a little rack for 4 passive crossovers and at the same time free up more room in cargo area without revamping the entire amp mounting scheme by running the comps electronically filtered by the deck, is rather go that route.

I'm using my paid time off (vacation time) to do this and the lady has been pretty well behaved so far and understanding of me "wasting" vacation time for "shit teenagers do".  You know how that goes. I feel I have less than one more trip to the hardware store before I'm castrated  lmao.

[ToNasty]

From all this I highly suggest you just keep it passive.  

[AaronT]

I get that but what are the passive crossovers doing that the ones in the deck aren't doing?

are they providing some kind of phase shift or time alignment that the decks not going to do?

before I blindly follow suggestions I like to know exactly what's happening before I do so

 

[ToNasty]

50 minutes ago, AaronT said:

I get that but what are the passive crossovers doing that the ones in the deck aren't doing?

are they providing some kind of phase shift or time alignment that the decks not going to do?

before I blindly follow suggestions I like to know exactly what's happening before I do so

 

They are basically preset crossovers and slopes so you dont have to worry about it and also thr tweeter is protected 

[White Lightning]

Main thing to do is to get the head unit installed and rca cables to the amplifier location ...

[AaronT]

Head units in, RCA is ran, power ran. Outer door skins got 2 layers of deadener, just working on getting through vthe molexes so I can get wire into doors.

Rears were easy there was 4 unused locations down the bottom of molex. And one unused up top. So I unpinned the one used on bottom, relocated to top and hot knifed the molex to get 2 runs of 12g knu konceptz speaker wire in there. 

[White Lightning]

If you look a a component set design, well, I know this for Linear Power, is the passive networks need to be as close to the components as possible. You may have to read up on your Rockfords before installing, but you may get away with mounting them next to the Amplifiers. 

Once all of your drivers are installed, I would start out with using just the four channel amplifier. Channel one - left front, channel two - right front, channel three - left rear, channel four - right rear. Start tuning from this point. Leave the larger two channel out of the equation for now ...

[AaronT]

I've read up on the fosgates plenty. Even spoke to tech support numerous times 

I got my plan. It's going to work. I understand your opinions on this, and also an going to use all amps I have  

I like headroom, amps will be set using voltage x voltage / resistance of drivers hooked up to give me just under their RMS ratings.

Mids woofers will get 75 watts RMS, tweeters will get 45 watts RMS and adjusted from there if need be.

 

Thanks 

[ToNasty]

8 minutes ago, AaronT said:

I've read up on the fosgates plenty. Even spoke to tech support numerous times 

I got my plan. It's going to work. I understand your opinions on this, and also an going to use all amps I have  

I like headroom, amps will be set using voltage x voltage / resistance of drivers hooked up to give me just under their RMS ratings.

Mids woofers will get 75 watts RMS, tweeters will get 45 watts RMS and adjusted from there if need be.

 

Thanks 

If you run active make sure to cap the tweeters 

[White Lightning]

Good luck Sir.