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silverfx23

R/S programming question

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I am looking at a Viper or Compustar and am only held up by one thing:  Programming the bypass module.  If I buy the Viper, I have to go to a dealer and have the module flashed, which is fine, but in some cases I can't have the car with me.  I read that the idatalink was easy, then on a recent review for the module I read it had been locked to Dealer Only as well.  

I'd much rather have a module that does all over the databus cable as opposed to hardwired, so combo modules are a definite plus.

Anyone shed some light on this for me? Recommendations welcome.  

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the install is based on the vehicle not what module you choose. you don't choose if the r/s does things over data. your vehicle may not do things over data so it'll need to be hardwired. both Compustar and Viper are dealer protected by only allowing dealers to flash modules. both do not offer any sort of warranty, all warranty stuff has to be processed through dealers. are you intent on installing it yourself?


if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

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mothra    I should have clarified:  I am a former car installer, 10yrs exp, heavy on r/s and security side.  I went into the Commercial Fire Alarm industry and still do favors for people on the side.  I've always had a DEI guy available for flashing my modules until earlier this year and he walked away from the industry.  So what I'm looking for is either a local guy who will do my flashing for me, or go with a "tried and tested" brand, like Compustar and Idatalink that allows an average guy the access to flash my own module.  I prefer the direct link data cable or port due to the simplicity of install (hunting each individual wire) and the way that they interface with the vehicles data tends to make the cars cpu happy.  

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The CS7900 is a great choice. 

What car is it? I can help you identify what will work through data and what won't. Some cars won't do shit through data.

Where are you located? That might get you some more help.

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First car is a 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport, the second is a 2015 Honda Accord, black key, not a proximity key.  I got a look at the manual on the honda and it looks like I will have to hardwire some odds and ends at the ignition switch, and of course the main power/ground stuff.  The Santa Fe looks pretty straightforward, if its anything like my 2015, I barely had to run anything outside of the Dball2.

 

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