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Beefing up my electrical


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6 hours ago, AaronT said:

Well this is the thing  2 evls will take everything a rp3500 has. As long as it's clean unclipped.

 

As far as distortion goes it's only going to distortion if input signal is clipped or track your playing is clipped or you overdrive the amp.

 

Set up right a single evl would take a full rp3500 itself

Yeah I completely forgot about the signal from the radio being clean...that does make sense. So as long as a clean signal is getting to the amp, the amp will put out x wattage even if gain isn't maxed?

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No gain has to be set to match hu voltage to get max wattage.

 

0 what I'm saying is if your signal isn't clean from your source unit say for whatever reason like a clipped song then your aunt's going to be clipping regardless of how high its up now will that clipping kill it not if it's not matched up but if that amp is set to its Max wattage then yeah that input clip is going to murder

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Basically if you don't have an ocelot scope or a dd1 you can still get your max RMS out of your amp without clipping given that you know your amp is an app that will do a little bit overrated which most car amplifiers will do they will do their RMS and then a little bit more so you're guaranteed your 3000 watt skar amp will do 3000 watt

 

So how are you Chief this is most modern decks will not distort even at max volume if everything is set flat meaning your EQ is flat your bass boost is off your loud is off in your sublevel is set to zero

 

Now what you do is your play a test tone for your bass amp 40 Hertz -5 decibels

 

Now you turn your deck up to two notches under it's max volume we're going to do this just because because some decks will distort at a certain frequency while they won't distort at others so we're going to play it safe and set a -5 decibel overlap

 

Now you figure out the ohm load your amp is going to see and you do a mathematical formula to get yourself a voltage reading for 3000 Watts at whatever ohms you're running

 

So if you're running 1 ohm you find the square root of 3000 then you take that number and a digital multimeter hook up to your amplifier speaker outputs in adjust your game until you reach the number that you got when you did the math for finding the square root of 3000 that will give you 3000 Watts Max at that volume your head unit was set at let's say it was 38 out of 40 so you know at 38 with everything flat you're giving your subs 3000 Watts RMS

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21 minutes ago, AaronT said:

Basically if you don't have an ocelot scope or a dd1 you can still get your max RMS out of your amp without clipping given that you know your amp is an app that will do a little bit overrated which most car amplifiers will do they will do their RMS and then a little bit more so you're guaranteed your 3000 watt skar amp will do 3000 watt

 

So how are you Chief this is most modern decks will not distort even at max volume if everything is set flat meaning your EQ is flat your bass boost is off your loud is off in your sublevel is set to zero

 

Now what you do is your play a test tone for your bass amp 40 Hertz -5 decibels

 

Now you turn your deck up to two notches under it's max volume we're going to do this just because because some decks will distort at a certain frequency while they won't distort at others so we're going to play it safe and set a -5 decibel overlap

 

Now you figure out the ohm load your amp is going to see and you do a mathematical formula to get yourself a voltage reading for 3000 Watts at whatever ohms you're running

 

So if you're running 1 ohm you find the square root of 3000 then you take that number and a digital multimeter hook up to your amplifier speaker outputs in adjust your game until you reach the number that you got when you did the math for finding the square root of 3000 that will give you 3000 Watts Max at that volume your head unit was set at let's say it was 38 out of 40 so you know at 38 with everything flat you're giving your subs 3000 Watts RMS

That's alot of info to take in but I do appreciate it. I plan on getting a dd-1 but I may have top use this method until I get one. Thanks for taking the time to explain all that

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So, I know how I'm gonna wire things up, but I still wanna know if the high output alternator and d6500 will be enough to temporarily power the system until I get a few xp3000s for the rear. I won't have enough money to get everything at once so I'm sort of upgrading piece by piece. But I will be installing the alternator,  d6500, and big 3 all at the same time. I'm just hoping that will be enough juice to get me by until I get the other batteries

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54 minutes ago, BassAddikt said:

So, I know how I'm gonna wire things up, but I still wanna know if the high output alternator and d6500 will be enough to temporarily power the system until I get a few xp3000s for the rear. I won't have enough money to get everything at once so I'm sort of upgrading piece by piece. But I will be installing the alternator,  d6500, and big 3 all at the same time. I'm just hoping that will be enough juice to get me by until I get the other batteries

 

Well, run it and watch it..... 

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2 hours ago, BassAddikt said:

So, I know how I'm gonna wire things up, but I still wanna know if the high output alternator and d6500 will be enough to temporarily power the system until I get a few xp3000s for the rear. I won't have enough money to get everything at once so I'm sort of upgrading piece by piece. But I will be installing the alternator,  d6500, and big 3 all at the same time. I'm just hoping that will be enough juice to get me by until I get the other batteries

Honestly I would plan room in your build for extra batteries. Install the d6500 and xp3000 with alternator and watch your voltage. If it drops below 13.5 I’d get another xp. If it’s dropping to high 13s I would say thats good enough for a daily. 

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You're going to be  making at least 6 crikos under hood and God knows how many in rear.

 

Buying those lugs local individual is like 2-5 each and that's if they even have the closed barrel lugs, you do not want the split "crimp" type. They hold like shit and don't create a cold weld.

 

Trust me this part will ad up big time if you nickle and dine it as piece work 

 

Buy 25 lugs the crimper and some marine grade adhesive lined shrink tube. I recommend knukonceptz

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On 1/2/2020 at 9:39 PM, Joshdashef said:

Honestly I would plan room in your build for extra batteries. Install the d6500 and xp3000 with alternator and watch your voltage. If it drops below 13.5 I’d get another xp. If it’s dropping to high 13s I would say thats good enough for a daily. 

 

If he holds 13.5, that is OVER battery rest. No need for another battery that sits at 12.7 or whatever. Make sense ? If he holds 13.5 full RIP,  even 13, then hes completely fine. No reason to waste money and weight. 

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