NickJaymz Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 Hey guys! So I went from kicker comps to these... http://www.qpowerinc.com/details.aspx?product_id=160 In a nice big ol box. Now all I have right now is a jl audio 500/1 amp, and I know it's nowhere enough power cause it cuts out to loud. Of course. Now in looking for an amp suggestion on what I should get to push these things. They sound great when I have them going to where they won't cut off, but if it gets to loud it clicks off. Which is understandable. So any suggestions that are pocket friendly and not cost an arm and leg, would be great. Something decent but cheap for now will do until I can spend the extra cash and get something more pricey! Thanks guys 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Is it cutting out because you have the subs wired too low? Under powering a sub won't cause the amp to cut off, thermal or short will cut amp off also. Budget friendly amps with decent power are the Rockville db and phenom monoblocks, have had luck with a few soundstream mono also but kind of sketchy choice there. The ppi black ice mono amps are good bang for your buck too. If you are gonna buy an amp I'd really suggest getting one you can keep using when u upgrade your subs again tho. Put good money into an amp and it'll pay for itself by not dying on you, cheap is usually just that, cheap lol. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Amp shutting off, cuz to loud? Interesting. I'd be looking at other potential issues. That 500/1 jl amp is a nice nice amp. Imho. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 12 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said: Amp shutting off, cuz to loud? Interesting. I'd be looking at other potential issues. That 500/1 jl amp is a nice nice amp. Imho. That's what I was thinking, I didn't see it was a jl 500, plenty of power for those qpower subs (if not too much honestly ) maybe coil messing up on one of the subs, had a buddy with a mofo 12 that would send amp into protect only when it hit a real low note ( like 30hz and subsonic was at 28), finally cut sub apart and bottom of vc was dinged up 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 28 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said: 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 On 1/12/2020 at 4:28 PM, NickJaymz said: Hey guys! So I went from kicker comps to these... http://www.qpowerinc.com/details.aspx?product_id=160 In a nice big ol box. Now all I have right now is a jl audio 500/1 amp, and I know it's nowhere enough power cause it cuts out to loud. Of course. Now in looking for an amp suggestion on what I should get to push these things. They sound great when I have them going to where they won't cut off, but if it gets to loud it clicks off. Which is understandable. So any suggestions that are pocket friendly and not cost an arm and leg, would be great. Something decent but cheap for now will do until I can spend the extra cash and get something more pricey! Thanks guys <img src="> Yeah uhhh could be a lot of things why it cuts out bad ground is one... from my expereince with thier amps good luck with those subs.., my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassMunky Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 Running 1/2 ohm? Shakin not Stirred....my buildhttp://www.stevemead...ngle-cab-build/412 CVX And put a sealed enclosure in your trunk cut a hole in your deck and call it ported Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 Two dual 4 ohm subs can only wire to 1,4 and 16 ohms, dual 2 ohm is .5,2 and 8 I think..his links shows 4 ohm dvc subs but how many does he have? Didn't get specific 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 Picture yourselves guys, when you first were doing this. He means when he cranks it up hard to floss his tunes a bit it cuts out. 1st clue He posted 2 dual 4 subs, I will have to bet he's running them at 1 ohm. 2nd clue Says amp can't be no where near enough, I'm assuming again he's basing this off the Q Powers inflated RMS specs and grossly exaggerated peak specs. He is thinking based on info given to him, no fault of his own, that the subs want 900 RMS and 3400 peak. JL being small physical size as well as one of thier mid wattage models, he's damn sure it's way to underpowering them. 3rd clue. Now based on all this facts we gathered from his posts and reasonable educated assumptions, he's got the amp way high, if not all the way to the right, in an attempt to get every drop of juice it has to the subs Ok, OP, those subs specs are incredibly inflated. To claim 3400 watts to the pair as peak handling, is bonkers. They couldn't take half that and not melt. 450 RMS each is even over the top. If I had to guess I'd say that's a 175-250 RMS sub.snd if one must have a be peak wattage, then I'd say they were 350-500 watts peak. Your amp is plenty for them. Your amp is shutting off because of thermal or heat issues due to 1 of these possible reasons or all of them. That amp is 2 ohm stable , your giving it to low impedance And/or Your gain is maxed out, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.