repobud Posted January 13, 2020 Report Share Posted January 13, 2020 About 6 months ago we put a head unit and door speakers in my son's truck is done correctly with a mounting kit and wiring harness everything was fine the other day we installed two subwoofers and an amplifier again everything was fine yesterday it stopped playing music I checked all my wiring all my connections everything was good so I assumed it was the head unit (it was one of those $20 blaupunkt Toronto's) so we went out and bought a new head unit installed it same thing no sound then I found that if I unplug the wiring harness for the speakers and plug it back in they'll play for 2 seconds and then no sound again so I left it unplugged and I can get the subs to come on and play but as soon as I plug the door speakers back in I lose sound again I ohmed out the harness for the door speakers and I'm getting 4 ohms on each I thought maybe one had blown and was shorting out any thoughts the trucks done so I don't want to rip it all apart again and it's middle of Winter. Thanks for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted January 13, 2020 Report Share Posted January 13, 2020 definitely sounds like a speaker wire shorting out or a blown speaker causing a dead short Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 13, 2020 Report Share Posted January 13, 2020 Yep, agreed short on a speaker wire. U can use a multimeter at the head unit and check every speaker lead with an ohmeeter ( mine has a beep instead of a reading for continuity) , but ground one lead if meter and test each speaker wire, one will show u an impedance reading ( or beep if it's does that and that will tell u which wire is shorted to ground and let u know which door to start looking in). I have seen some poorly mounted door speakers have a terminal touching the door cause a shorted wire, usually it from someone who used drywall screws to mount them tho. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
repobud Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 I wound up putting spade terminals on the speaker harness and disconnecting them 1 at a time till it started playing again. It was the passenger rear speaker. He's got sound again. We'll pull it apart in the spring. Thanks for the help 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 51 minutes ago, repobud said: I wound up putting spade terminals on the speaker harness and disconnecting them 1 at a time till it started playing again. It was the passenger rear speaker. He's got sound again. We'll pull it apart in the spring. Thanks for the help <img src="> Good deal, it happens alot and that's why I quit using anything but big head self tapping screws with foam tape and premade adapters to mount door speakers long agao. Not saying it's the speaker mounting in the door but I'm willing to bet it is lol 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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