Scotnemily Posted January 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 yeah they do need more then what they are getting right now. I will put them back on .5 ohms and give them some more power over the weekend if I get a chance. on a 40hz test tone they are only seeing about 750 rms each and that song isn't pushing them nearly as much. I doubt they are getting must over 600 each on that song. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 yeah those guys are basically begging for more power, i doubt you're even breaking the suspension in on em. as for your question of the DD1 doing you any good, it's a LOT more precise and comes with proven technology behind it when helping to set you amps truly to below clipping. I've never trusted a clip indicator on an amp or a bass knob, especially when they've been proven wrong by a DD1 before. I wouldn't hesitate to set that amp to .5 and just below clip via DD1, plus considering box rise music im' sure theyll never actually get 2k rms per. so you're even safer. just make sure your electrical is up to snuff to support .5 Hell if you were closer I'd let you borrow mine to set your self up proper. check the SMD tool map and see if there's someone close to you and maybe you wont even have to buy one, just get someone a case of beer or lunch and they'll help you out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotnemily Posted January 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 Ok I see. I think it was this amp but might have been another I saw the clip indicator tested against a DD-1 and it was dead on. anyway that is kind of beside the point. not saying this replaces a DD-1 and you should never try to set your gains... I did see there is someone about 90 miles from me that is on the list. I might try to reach out to them and see what they say. I will post some updates tomorrow if I get a chance to change things around. I have to pull that box out again and it is a heavy beast and a pain to do by myself. I also have to relocate my mids amp and relocate some wires. Then change the subs back to .5 ohm load put it back in the car, reseal around the box and the trunk, then see what I get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 Man I'd be finding a way to make changing your load easier...that sounds brutal to have to get box and all out. My 4 8s I had two subs on each wire coming out of the box, I could quickly go from 2ohm to .5 ohm and the connection tucked back and hid well. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotnemily Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Yeah tell me about it. I have a fix for it, but I have to wait for nicer weather. I will have to pull the box out again in a few more months to finish painting or what ever I am going to do to it. At that time I might put one of those nice 4 way SMD terminals in. I have one of the round ones now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotnemily Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Just a quick update. I got the box pulled out of the trunk, subs rewired to .5 ohms. Subs and box back in the car and fastened down. I have to cut a couple of brackets out to mount the sub amp at an angle. Then wire the amps up. Had to stop to take my kids to archery practice. I hope to finish it up tonight, but might be tomorrow before I get it wired up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotnemily Posted January 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Brackets made, but the rest will have to wait until tomorrow now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotnemily Posted January 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Ok so I thought I was all done but now I am afraid I might need to almost start over and pull the subs back out. I got everything installed and playing. However it didn’t sound any louder then before. Almost the same level. Voltage was not dropping at all. Staying right at 14v. I was expecting a little difference. So I looked to see how the subs were moving. 1st one I looked at was bearly moving. Just about like before. Then I look at the other and it is moving a lot more. Odd I think. Then I remember I meant to check the ohm reading before I ever put the box back in the car. I had forgotten. So I disconnected the amp and measured the terminal on the box. It is reading right at 2 ohms! Now I am really confused. I though one of the subwoofers might have gotten disconnected some how when putting them back in the box. Not sure how but thought it was possible. But if this happened I wouldn’t have a 2 ohm reading I would have a 1 ohm reading. I have 1 pair of wires coming off the terminal in the rear going to each sub. I spliced the wires towards the end closest to the subs and made a Y with both positive and negative. Both positives are hooked to the positive on each coil on both subs and all negatives are hooked to the negative side unless I have totally lost it this is connected in parallel/parallel both subs and both coils are parallel. So two 2 ohm subs should read close to .5 ohms. I have measured each coil on each sub previously and verified they were both 2 ohms. And I had measured the old configuration I just had them in and the total load was tight at 2 ohms. How I am getting 2 ohms load currently I have no idea. Why one sub appears to be moving twice as much or more then the other also has be scratching my head. Last thing I want to do right now is take it all back out. But I am kind of stuck. I took some pictures but they suck I hate the way the wires are currently. The wires for the mid and highs amp are each about 4 feet longer then they need to be since I relocated it. I didn’t take the time yet to shorten them as I wanted to test it all first. The power and ground wires are all a big mess too. The 1/0 gauge are all about 24” longer then they need to be. I didn’t want to make them shorter because I thought I might be moving the batteries to the spare tire well and put another stock size agm battery back in the stock location. If I cut the wires so it is nice now then I will be buying more wires later just to make them a little longer. Either way when I look at the rats nest right now I just shake my head and close the trunk. At this point I am starting to wish I hadn’t touched it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 15 minutes ago, Scotnemily said: Ok so I thought I was all done but now I am afraid I might need to almost start over and pull the subs back out. I got everything installed and playing. However it didn’t sound any louder then before. Almost the same level. Voltage was not dropping at all. Staying right at 14v. I was expecting a little difference. So I looked to see how the subs were moving. 1st one I looked at was bearly moving. Just about like before. Then I look at the other and it is moving a lot more. Odd I think. Then I remember I meant to check the ohm reading before I ever put the box back in the car. I had forgotten. So I disconnected the amp and measured the terminal on the box. It is reading right at 2 ohms! Now I am really confused. I though one of the subwoofers might have gotten disconnected some how when putting them back in the box. Not sure how but thought it was possible. But if this happened I wouldn’t have a 2 ohm reading I would have a 1 ohm reading. I have 1 pair of wires coming off the terminal in the rear going to each sub. I spliced the wires towards the end closest to the subs and made a Y with both positive and negative. Both positives are hooked to the positive on each coil on both subs and all negatives are hooked to the negative side unless I have totally lost it this is connected in parallel/parallel both subs and both coils are parallel. So two 2 ohm subs should read close to .5 ohms. I have measured each coil on each sub previously and verified they were both 2 ohms. And I had measured the old configuration I just had them in and the total load was tight at 2 ohms. How I am getting 2 ohms load currently I have no idea. Why one sub appears to be moving twice as much or more then the other also has be scratching my head. Last thing I want to do right now is take it all back out. But I am kind of stuck. I took some pictures but they suck I hate the way the wires are currently. The wires for the mid and highs amp are each about 4 feet longer then they need to be since I relocated it. I didn’t take the time yet to shorten them as I wanted to test it all first. The power and ground wires are all a big mess too. The 1/0 gauge are all about 24” longer then they need to be. I didn’t want to make them shorter because I thought I might be moving the batteries to the spare tire well and put another stock size agm battery back in the stock location. If I cut the wires so it is nice now then I will be buying more wires later just to make them a little longer. Either way when I look at the rats nest right now I just shake my head and close the trunk. At this point I am starting to wish I hadn’t touched it... Man that really sux! All that work and end up just wanting to close the trunk! If I was closer I'd help ya just cause it's a pet peeve of mine, can't leave something about my stereo not how I want it. Gotta get back at it and get it right tho or ur never gonna let urself live it down! That's the hard part of car audio, you are always changing it and evolving it to another level. Definantly a live hate thing. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotnemily Posted January 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Yeah I really need to clean up the rats nest of wires. Right now though I am trying to figure out what is going on the the subs without pulling the box back out. I know the subs we not exactly 2 ohms per coil closer to 2.4 ohms. But I was really close to. 2 ohm load before I changed them to parallel wiring. Now I am about 1.97 ohms. Not sure why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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